From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

Off the Beaten Path

Wales watching

Truffle Hunting in the Tuscan Hills


Truffle Hunting in the Tuscan Hills

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We love Wales' grand country-house hotels—especially Bodsygallen and Ynyshir Halls—but we're always happy to get a dose of modernism among those 17th-century manses. That's why we were particularly happy to check into Morgans hotel, in Swansea on the South Wales coast. Inside the stately old brick-and-stone building is a brilliant design scheme based on the square, as in square-rigger: leather cube chairs, square bed cushions and headboards, square transom windows that help illuminate the twenty sleek guestrooms. But the design hasn't destroyed the building's Edwardian charm. A stained-glass cupola above the main staircase honors the compass-point winds. French-polished teak doors still stand. A fine barrel-vault ceiling arcs over the chic crowd in Morgans Restaurant. Book the Zeta, one of our favorite rooms, which happens to share its name with a Ms. Jones, a Swansea native and sometime Morgans guest. Just ask the cheery staff for the full story; they'll happily explain. $ Rates, $185-460. On Somerset Place; 44-17-92-484-848;

Hotel prices show high-season rates from the least expensive double to the most expensive suite.



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