From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

Bamberger Reiter

Sohm looks at the color and how fine the mousse is — the fine streams of bubbles — a sign of great quality.

Wine and Spirits

How to Drink Grower Champagne

Legendary sommelier Aldo Sohm on rarer bubbles.

Everything I Now Want After Attending the Masters


Everything I Now Want After Attending the Masters

From cars to clothes to bourbon, covetable things abound at the most prestigious...

The Hoodie of the Future


The Hoodie of the Future

British clothier Vollebak makes garments for today’s superhero.

Bamberger Reiter, the Michelin one-star located in Schöneberg (southwest of the center), is the perfect fusion restaurant—three small, snug, dining rooms that are exactly what the Germans mean when they say gemütlich—and a menu of nouvelle cuisine, "but modern and with a slight German accent," according to chef-proprietor Cristoph Fischer.

My dinner here was superb, from the opener, a "tartare" of chanterelle mushrooms, using fresh, regional mushrooms that are slightly roasted, to the loup de mer (remember, this restaurant has a French accent). Like all the fish served here, the loup is caught with a hook and line, not netted, because Fischer believes that hooked fish tastes better. "A fish caught in a net dies of shock and is already dead when pulled into the boat," he says. "The one that is hooked fights until the bitter end, thus the meat is stronger. It tastes like fish."

In between I had a fillet of venison in Brikteig, a flaky pastry dough, and Waldpilzschaumsuppe, a seasonal soup of local mushrooms that had a foamy lightness obtained by letting the soup boil and then combining it with heavy cream.

The meal pace is sedate—intentionally. His ambition, says the 28-year-old Fischer, is to create the atmosphere of a small Tyrolean restaurant. "Even though it might sound a bit cheeky," he says, "I would say that Bamberger Reiter is unique in Berlin. Everyone else is trying to be very modern and chic. I have always liked cozy little restaurants like ours." $150-$210. Regensburger Strasse 7; 49-30-218-428-2; fax 49-30-214-747-99.


Let’s Keep in Touch

Subscribe to our newsletter

You’re no longer on our newsletter list, but you can resubscribe anytime.

Come On In

U.S. issued American Express Platinum Card® and Centurion® Members, enter the first six digits of your card number to access your complimentary subscription.

Learn about membership.