Even in this cityof backless halters and skintight jeans, women still wear gloves when they come to the Alvear Palace Hotel. They put on short-sleeved Ungaro suits and tie their hair back into neat chignons. The grand 1932 hotel, in the center of the Recoleta neighborhood between the Buenos Aires Jockey Club and the famous Recoleta Cemetery, demands a certain formality. The concierge will call you Mrs. whether you are or not; the lobby bar will serve you cappuccino on a silver tray. You can eat venison glazed with Malbec in the dining room, and there are vitrines filled with Cartier jewelry in the wood-lined hallways. The guest rooms, elegantly done, are nearly beside the point. If your fantasy of Buenos Aires begins with the image of Evita Perón on the balcony of the Casa Rosada singing "Don't Cry for Me, Argentina" (and really, whose doesn't?), this is the place to stay. From $550 to $4,500. At 1891 Avda. Alvear; 54-11/4808-2100; alvearpalace.com.