From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

Alex Atala

The name of Atala's restaurant D.O.M. stands for "Dominus, Optimus, Maximus" and is a tribute to the cuisine of Benedictine monks. Huh? We didn't know what that tasted like either. But that's the thrill of this new dining room in Jardins. Atala, who has a popular cooking show on Brazilian TV, makes brilliant use of native food—say, hearts of palm (thrown into a fettuccine carbonara), tapioca (used to marinate oysters), and black beans (served with codfish brandade). Tropical fruit also grabs the spotlight, as in a papaya-mango salsa that will forever alter your notion of salsa. Dinner, $200. At 549 Rua Barão de Capanema; 55-11/3088-0761;


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