Guides

A Chef’s Guide to Sardinia

Eataly cheesemonger Tess McNamara and Ci Siamo chef Hillary Sterling share their favorite food destinations on the Italian island.

Photo by Michael Brooks

WHEN IT COMES to food, there’s an inherent truth to the common adage, “Italians do it better.” Whether it’s an early morning cappuccino or a wine-and-pasta dinner, it’s no secret that even the most basic foods take on an elevated quality. For Chef Hillary Sterling of New York City’s Ci Siamo and her partner Tess McNamara, who heads up the salumi and formaggi program for Eataly’s North American outposts, Sardinia’s gastronomic offerings are a notch above the rest in terms of Italian cuisine.

Sterling, whose own handmade pastas and wood-fired Italian cuisine recently put her on the longlist for a James Beard Award, explains that the landscape shapes the cuisine. “[Sardinia’s] exterior and interior are so different, it’s like night and day,” she says. “The interior can have an almost desert-like terroir — and there’s a lot of animal cookery and cheese — while the exterior obviously is more about the seafood.” There are mountainous regions and lush, undulating hillsides too, where the island’s teeming population of sheep roam freely, hence the abundant varieties of local pecorino cheeses and sheep’s milk ricottas.

The island’s well-preserved, centuries-old traditions, anchored by an anachronistic character, make it unique as Italy’s mainland continues to lure tourists en masse. While the beaches stretching along the island’s northeast coast outside of Olbia (an airport hub) draw their share of vacationers, the couple prefers the northwest quadrant for its quieter charms and accessible agriturismi (working farms that offer meals and overnight stays). Now parents to a hungry toddler, Sterling and McNamara share some of their favorite destinations for relaxed meals, scenic aperitivi alfresco, and markets to pick up a day’s picnic.

Sa Mandra’s farm-sourced tasting menu showcases the island’s well-preserved culinary traditions. (Photo by Paolo Salvadori)

Where to Eat

Zia Forica

Homestyle comfort food
Centrally located just off the public gardens in Sassari, Zia Forica is an unassuming, homey-feeling trattoria dishing up a seasonal rotation of hand-stuffed ravioli, culurgiones (a Sardinian spin on ravioli), and the house specialty: grilled snails. It’s the perfect lunchtime spot to duck into... Centrally located just off the public gardens in Sassari, Zia Forica is an unassuming, homey-feeling trattoria dishing up a seasonal rotation of hand-stuffed ravioli, culurgiones (a Sardinian spin on ravioli), and the house specialty: grilled snails. It’s the perfect lunchtime spot to duck into after working up an appetite strolling the city center. Don’t overlook the delicious sides (aka the contorni), particularly the fava beans, eggplant parmigiana, and marinated vegetables.

Trattoria Marco Polo

Surf and turf by way of Catalonia
During warmer months, it’s obvious why this beachfront trattoria is such a popular destination (especially at sunset), but the interior dining rooms, with their vaulted stone ceilings, are equally cozy and charming. “We were really interested in the city of Alghero, a walled city that has a lot... During warmer months, it’s obvious why this beachfront trattoria is such a popular destination (especially at sunset), but the interior dining rooms, with their vaulted stone ceilings, are equally cozy and charming. “We were really interested in the city of Alghero, a walled city that has a lot of Spanish influence in its cuisine,” says McNamara. The trattoria has a sizable menu of gorgeous seafood platters, meats, and fresh pasta, often with a slight Catalan twist. If you’re just feeling peckish, have a glass of vernaccia alongside the Mazara red prawns, delicately laced with mirto (a popular digestif made from local myrtle berries). Hungrier carnivores should tuck into the roasted suckling pig — a popular Sardinian specialty known as porceddu.

Su Gologone

An upscale Sunday lunch
The problem with day trips to this upscale "agriturismo" — one of Sardinia’s more luxurious properties — is that non-overnight guests will find it hard to leave. Su Gologone’s restaurant has become a sought-after destination in and of itself. Make a reservation for a relaxed Sunday lunch,... The problem with day trips to this upscale "agriturismo" — one of Sardinia’s more luxurious properties — is that non-overnight guests will find it hard to leave. Su Gologone’s restaurant has become a sought-after destination in and of itself. Make a reservation for a relaxed Sunday lunch, preferably alfresco with a glass of chilled Cannonau, where the smell of fresh herbs and smoky, spit-roasted porceddu lingers in the air. The paper-thin rounds of crispy pane carasau, along with other bread, are all made on-site at Nido del Pane (“Nest of Bread”), where visitors can watch demonstrations and buy some to savor later. At the restaurant, it’s served with tomato sauce and topped with an egg.

Tundu Carasau di Oliena

Award-winning pane carasau
Given its ubiquity throughout Sardinia, it’s easy to take pane carasau’s production for granted, but the process behind this traditional thin and crispy bread takes up to 15 hours. At owner Mario Rubanu’s well-known artisanal bakery in the mountainous region of Barbagia, visitors can watch as... Given its ubiquity throughout Sardinia, it’s easy to take pane carasau’s production for granted, but the process behind this traditional thin and crispy bread takes up to 15 hours. At owner Mario Rubanu’s well-known artisanal bakery in the mountainous region of Barbagia, visitors can watch as thin discs of leavened dough quickly puff up like pillows in the wood-burning ovens before they’re taken out, sliced across into two sheets, and baked again. The workers (typically women) wear traditional garb that recalls an earlier time, but the operation here is a modern one. Just look at the stylish packaging of the various panes, which you’ll want to scoop up in doubles — they make great gifts.

Sa Mandra

The ultimate agriturismo experience
Situated outside of Alghero’s city center, Sa Mandra is one of the island’s top agriturismi — and for good reason: the setting is picture-perfect, and there’s an impressive selection of activities for visitors of all ages. From adult cooking classes to lessons in agriculture, cheesemaking, and... Situated outside of Alghero’s city center, Sa Mandra is one of the island’s top agriturismi — and for good reason: the setting is picture-perfect, and there’s an impressive selection of activities for visitors of all ages. From adult cooking classes to lessons in agriculture, cheesemaking, and animal husbandry for kids, not to mention the on-site museum of traditional Sardinian crafts and objects, this is very much a “choose-your-own-adventure.” Don’t miss a meal here; the tasting menu featuring farm-sourced ingredients changes daily, and it’s one of the most satisfying showcases of the island’s culinary traditions in a single sitting — with an impressive list of Sardinian wines to match.
Photo by Chloe Frost-Smith

Where to Drink

Buena Vista Bar

Laidback sunset aperitivi
The name doesn’t lie. Order a mojito and settle in for the glorious sunset at this seafront bar, where the decor is sun-faded, the menu is Cuban-inflected, and the vibe is decidedly no-fuss. Between the fantastic unobstructed views, lively crowd, and perhaps a second mojito or daiquiri, this is an ideal way to end the day.

Musciarra

A very filling happy hour
For aperitivo at this casual restaurant, it’s best to show up hungry. The small plates of snacks — stacked high with wedges of salty pecorino, panini bites, and blankets of coppa, salame dolce, and other cured meats — could easily be a full meal. The back terrace with views overlooking Stintino’s... For aperitivo at this casual restaurant, it’s best to show up hungry. The small plates of snacks — stacked high with wedges of salty pecorino, panini bites, and blankets of coppa, salame dolce, and other cured meats — could easily be a full meal. The back terrace with views overlooking Stintino’s port fills up quickly with locals, so try to arrive early and grab a small table.

Advertisement
The island's robust sheep population translates to abundant varieties of local pecorino cheeses. (Photo by Aleksandra Koska)

Where to Shop and Picnic

Un Mondo di Formaggi

Cheese heaven
Just thinking about the abundant trove of cheeses and salumi crammed into this little shop outside of Castelsardo elicits a Pavlovian response. Unsurprisingly, the selection skews mostly Sardinian, although there’s a solid assortment of products from the Piedmont region as well (where the owner... Just thinking about the abundant trove of cheeses and salumi crammed into this little shop outside of Castelsardo elicits a Pavlovian response. Unsurprisingly, the selection skews mostly Sardinian, although there’s a solid assortment of products from the Piedmont region as well (where the owner Ruggero Dorigo is from). If you’ve had your fill of pecorino, try an aged caprino Sardo — a goat cheese, and a rarer find, considering the island’s robust sheep population. Better yet, leave the decision-making to the experts. Tell whoever’s behind the counter what you’re shopping for — a countryside picnic, a dinner party, a day at the beach — and let them assemble the perfect lineup.

Porto Torres Thursday Market

Track down an illicit cheese
Set out early for this sprawling open-air market in the northwestern coastal town of Porto Torres, which only operates on Thursday mornings until lunchtime. Grab a few pardulas (mini pie-like pastries traditionally filled with a lemony ricotta custard), for a quick and portable breakfast nosh... Set out early for this sprawling open-air market in the northwestern coastal town of Porto Torres, which only operates on Thursday mornings until lunchtime. Grab a few pardulas (mini pie-like pastries traditionally filled with a lemony ricotta custard), for a quick and portable breakfast nosh while perusing the extensive food stalls and stands. You’ll find vast offerings of produce, seafood and snails, cheeses and salumi, mushrooms, and even clothing and kitchen appliances. While you won’t spot any overt advertisement, this is one of the more likely places to find casu marzu, Sardinia’s notorious larvae-infested sheep’s milk cheese. It’s been illegal to sell since the 1960s, but if you’re feeling curious, the flavor is milder than its reputation suggests. Ask around and you’ll likely find a vendor who’s got some under the counter.

Spiaggia di Cala li Cossi

A beloved beach and idyllic picnic spot
You’ll have to walk a well-trod path along the coastline for about 10 or 15 minutes before reaching this tucked-away cove, but it’s worth it. On a sunny day, the water is a shimmering turquoise, the sand underfoot is fine, and there’s a palpable feeling of remoteness. For an even more heavenly... You’ll have to walk a well-trod path along the coastline for about 10 or 15 minutes before reaching this tucked-away cove, but it’s worth it. On a sunny day, the water is a shimmering turquoise, the sand underfoot is fine, and there’s a palpable feeling of remoteness. For an even more heavenly experience, pack up some pane carasau, cheese and cold cuts, and a couple of cold bottles of Ichnusa (a popular beer on the island) and make a picnic of it.

Explore More

Our Contributors

Laura Neilson Writer

Laura Neilson is an editor and writer of many subjects including fashion and style, travel, food and dining, design, and various persons of interest. Her work has appeared in the New York Times, T Magazine, WSJ Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, Vogue.com, Interview, Porter, Marie-Claire, the Business of Fashion, the Village Voice, as well as Refinery29, Fashionista, AD.com, WMagazine.com, and CoolHunting. She lives in Manhattan.

Jump To
',
Newsletter

Let’s Keep in Touch

Subscribe to our newsletter

You’re no longer on our newsletter list, but you can resubscribe anytime.