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WHEN IT COMES to Tokyo — the world’s most populous city with a greater metro population of about 38 million — lodging is in a class of its own. The city touts some of the world’s best properties, in both service and design. But choosing just one can feel overwhelming.
For the last decade, I’ve visited Japan several times every year, and I always transit through Tokyo, experiencing more than my share of its hotels. Much as I like to think of myself as an expert, nobody could ever visit them all. The megalopolis, after all, is home to over 3,650 hotels, and they run the gamut from tiny capsule hotels and unassuming, family-run minshuku (akin to bed-and-breakfasts) to elegant machiya (wooden townhouses), ryokan (traditional Japanese inns focused on relaxation and comfort), and sprawling international hotel suites overlooking the city’s Shinto shrines and neon-gleaming urban gorges.
In most of Japan, ryokan — often featuring tatami mat floors, onsen hot-spring baths, and multicourse kaiseki meals served in your room while you wear the inhouse yukata robe — typically offer the best expression of the country’s hospitality, called omotenashi. The hard-to-translate Japanese concept is a mixture of intuitive, guest-first service, and warm wholeheartedness. Ryokan had never been a Tokyo thing, a city that was better known for its Western-style hotels and busy coming-and-going international travelers. But after the pandemic, the ill-fated Olympics, and a nearly three-year closure to the world, things changed. Today, it seems that more international travelers understand, appreciate, and even expect Japanese omotenashi, and demand for ryokan grew across Tokyo, forcing many Tokyo hotels to adapt. The result is a crop of new styles and hospitality hybrids with omotenashi 2.0 that have begun to serve the next generation of Tokyo’s travelers.
Below is a look at some of the city’s top lodgings, where you can find comfort and tranquility, and maybe even a bit of old Japan, in the world’s busiest city.
Hotels
Palace Hotel Tokyo
Rare outdoor balconies with spectacular views
Not only does the stylish and elegant Palace Hotel Tokyo have outdoor balconies, a rarity in glassed-in Tokyo, but those balconies offer views of both Mount Fuji and the moat-encircled Imperial Palace in the bustling business-dense Marunouchi district....
Not only does the stylish and elegant Palace Hotel Tokyo have outdoor balconies, a rarity in glassed-in Tokyo, but those balconies offer views of both Mount Fuji and the moat-encircled Imperial Palace in the bustling business-dense Marunouchi district. The 290-room hotel also has 10 restaurants, an Evian spa, a high-tech fitness center, and a pool. Guest rooms are swathed in golds, creams, and mint greens accented against dark woods. The Palace Hotel, established in 1961 but totally rebuilt in 2012, goes above and beyond hotel concierge services and activities, with curated activities, including sumo-wrestler dinners, kayaking tours, jogging guides, and excellent contemporary art and architecture tours with local experts.
Bulgari Hotel
Dolce vita in Yaesu
Bulgari Hotel Tokyo, along with Marriott and the LVMH group that operate it, have added some much-needed dolce vita to the neighborhood of Yaesu, just across the street from Tokyo Station. Located on the 40th to 45th floors of the glassy, new Tokyo Midtown...
Bulgari Hotel Tokyo, along with Marriott and the LVMH group that operate it, have added some much-needed dolce vita to the neighborhood of Yaesu, just across the street from Tokyo Station. Located on the 40th to 45th floors of the glassy, new Tokyo Midtown Yaesu skyscraper, the 98-room hotel features interiors by the Milan-based studio of Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, whose large, understated, 500- to 600-square-foot guest rooms are lined with brushed elm floors, bone-colored walls, furniture from Maxalto and B&B Italia, and Richard Ginori Italian porcelain espresso cups aside gooseneck kettles. But this is Bulgari, so expect a bit of precious bling — travertine, gold leaf, and Murano glass are found throughout the property. A Roman-inspired chocolate and pastry shop and lobby lounge draw locals, as do the glassed-in displays of original Bulgari jewelry pieces. The rooftop bar and garden, a rare high-rise outdoor space, is earthy and heavily landscaped with yuzu trees and provides views of Mount Fuji and Tokyo Tower. Nab a reservation, if you can, at the hotel’s frequently booked eight-seat omakase sushi counter, crafted from one dramatic piece of blond hinoki wood.
The Tokyo Edition, Toranomon
Iconic minimalist rooms
In 2020, Kengo Kuma and Ian Schrager teamed up to create this 206-room hotel, housed in the 38-story Tokyo World Gate skyscraper, located in the Kamiyacho business district, fittingly near expat- and traveler-saturated Roppongi. Guests enter...
In 2020, Kengo Kuma and Ian Schrager teamed up to create this 206-room hotel, housed in the 38-story Tokyo World Gate skyscraper, located in the Kamiyacho business district, fittingly near expat- and traveler-saturated Roppongi. Guests enter the fern- and palm-festooned lobby at the 31st floor before checking in to more minimalist rooms, some with balconies and deep ofuro tubs. Beige and white palettes dominate natural-stone bathrooms, honey-hued wood-slat walls, many made of cedarwood, and giant floor-to-ceiling windows with views of Tokyo Tower and the glittering skyline. A 24/7 gym, pool, and rooftop lounge round out the amenities, while the restaurant — The Jade Room + Garden Terrace — is managed by Michelin-starred British chef Tom Aikens. Think snapper with sake lees, and duck with red shiso and peach. A second Edition is opening in Ginza in November 2023 and will feature 78 rooms, a rooftop bar, and a meeting studio.
Park Hyatt Tokyo
A cinematic stay
Housed in the top 14 floors of Pritzker laureate Kenzo Tange’s 52-story Shinjuku Park Tower, the iconic Park Hyatt Tokyo opened in 1994 and is still a standout. Some of its 178 guest rooms gaze out at Mount Fuji, while others look down at neon-lit...
Housed in the top 14 floors of Pritzker laureate Kenzo Tange’s 52-story Shinjuku Park Tower, the iconic Park Hyatt Tokyo opened in 1994 and is still a standout. Some of its 178 guest rooms gaze out at Mount Fuji, while others look down at neon-lit crevices of Shinjuku. Both are just the kind of place you want to slip into an avocado-green yukata robe after a night of sake, karaoke, and karaage fried chicken — much like Bill Murray did in “Lost in Translation,” filmed here in 2003. Hotel designer John Morford meticulously created the rooms to be international, not Japanese — soothing teal carpets, Hokkaido elmwood paneling, and ample use of granite and marble feel more NYC-penthouse than Tokyo-traditional. Don’t miss the sprawling health club and bath area, or the pyramidal glass-enclosed rooftop pool. A 2,000-book loan library emphasizes Japanese art and culture and will surely catch the eyes of Japanophiles who want less “lost” and more “translation.” The hotel’s legendary New York Grill specializes in regional wagyu, while the jazzy New York Bar remains a popular draw for tourists.
K5
Intimate Swedish design
This 20-room Design Hotels member that opened in 2020 in a former bank in the financial district of Nihonbashi Kabutocho, near the Tokyo Stock Exchange, eschews the high-rise hotel method. Instead, guests are treated to the minimalist designs of Swedish architectural...
This 20-room Design Hotels member that opened in 2020 in a former bank in the financial district of Nihonbashi Kabutocho, near the Tokyo Stock Exchange, eschews the high-rise hotel method. Instead, guests are treated to the minimalist designs of Swedish architectural studio Claesson Koivisto Rune in a five-level space that feels intimate, buzzy, indie, and cosmopolitan. Curvaceous cedar walls, copper-trimmed elevators, and tons of living greenery are set against washed concrete. High-ceilinged rooms with beehive-shaped washi-paper lanterns and vinyl turntables instead of TVs lend a studio feel, while tiled bathrooms bring on more vintage vibes. Unlike many international chains, the hotel is a legit food hot spot. Caveman draws Tokyo’s foodies; ask any latte geek about Switch Coffee; and an intimate bar, Ao, specializes in tea-themed cocktails. Craft-beer lovers can head to its basement location, which features Brooklyn Brewery.
Ryokan and Minshuku
Hoshinoya Tokyo
A perfect combination of ryokan and hotel
This Japanese hospitality umbrella oversees many lodging brands (including boutiquey Kai and value-conscious Omo), but Hoshinoya is their premiere luxury brand, and it doesn’t disappoint. Its unique hybrid formula of ryokan and hotel invites guests to...
This Japanese hospitality umbrella oversees many lodging brands (including boutiquey Kai and value-conscious Omo), but Hoshinoya is their premiere luxury brand, and it doesn’t disappoint. Its unique hybrid formula of ryokan and hotel invites guests to relax, encourages cultural experiences such as rooftop kenjutsu sword practice and tea ceremonies (both available at this particular property), and consistently delivers excellent food. Located in the Otemachi business district, the 17-story tower, clad in latticed metal, features 84 spacious, neutral-toned rooms. Glass walls and tatami-mat floors, fragrant bamboo closets, especially fluffy futons, shoji sliding doors, and deep ofuro soaking tubs deliver ryokan touches. Each floor has its own ochanoma, communal lounges serving seasonal wagashi sweets and senbei rice crackers. Don’t miss the saline-rich rooftop onsen, a true onsen (a rarity in Tokyo) that lets you soak in a rooftop water chamber while gazing out at a framed patch of sky. Tip: Book in advance at its popular 10-table restaurant, run by executive chef Ryosuke Oka, who practices French-inspired Japanese cuisine.
Trunk (House)
Eclectic amenities
Albino tanuki raccoon-dog figurines, a toilet that plays Brian Eno music, and a secret whisky-stocked karaoke disco, replete with rainbow-glass floor? If these amenities appeal, make your way to the cobblestoned back alleys of Tokyo’s under-the radar...
Albino tanuki raccoon-dog figurines, a toilet that plays Brian Eno music, and a secret whisky-stocked karaoke disco, replete with rainbow-glass floor? If these amenities appeal, make your way to the cobblestoned back alleys of Tokyo’s under-the radar Kagurazaka neighborhood, dubbed “mini Kyoto” because of its vibrant geisha history. The folks behind the 15-room Trunk (Hotel), a boutique hotel in Shibuya, set a new bar when they opened Trunk (House) in 2019, a splurgy, sexy, split-level residence. The spacious one-bedroom house is chock full of art — including a shunga (graphic erotic art) piece that hangs above the hinoki wooden soaking tub, which can accommodate three people. Museum-quality furniture comes from Tom Sachs, Herman Miller, and Jean Prouvé, while your personal butler works the upstairs firepit, whipping up wagashi snacks or midnight bowls of ramen. Better yet, he’ll take you on a tour of the neighborhood, increasingly known for its restaurants. In September 2023, the Trunk folks also opened a breezy, new 25-room boutique hotel in the hip Tomigaya neighborhood, with sun-kissed balconies and a rooftop infinity pool overlooking Yoyogi Park.
Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku
A serene retreat
Shinjuku is the last neighborhood in which anyone imagined a tranquil ryokan to open. But that’s exactly what happened, to the surprise of many, when this serene 193-room property opened in 2019. It’s discreetly tucked into an 18-story tower...
Shinjuku is the last neighborhood in which anyone imagined a tranquil ryokan to open. But that’s exactly what happened, to the surprise of many, when this serene 193-room property opened in 2019. It’s discreetly tucked into an 18-story tower with bamboo-shrouded and lantern-lit stone walkways, tatami-mat room floors, and rooftop granite and cypress baths, including special seasonal soaks such as the yuzu bath, mikan citrus bath, and iris bath.
Omo5 Tokyo Otsuka
In the center of Otsuka’s nightlife and izakaya scene
2018 brought this value-minded and group-friendly addition to the city from Japanese hotel chain Hoshino Resorts, better known for its luxury hotels across the country. Omo5 is parked in a high-rise in the youthful neighborhood of Otsuka, beloved for...
2018 brought this value-minded and group-friendly addition to the city from Japanese hotel chain Hoshino Resorts, better known for its luxury hotels across the country. Omo5 is parked in a high-rise in the youthful neighborhood of Otsuka, beloved for its nightlife and izakaya bars with snacks. The 125 versatile guest rooms offer ryokan-esque touches, such as tatami-mat rooms, but with an urban-hotel sensibility. Room configurations include a unique split-level design, with a loft bed and lower lounge area that converts into another bed. Built-in wooden storage shelves and clothes-hanging areas help combat clutter. An in-house all-day cafe serves snacks, cocktails, and coffee, but Omo’s complimentary “rangers” serve as guides who bring guests to neighborhood izakaya, kissaten (coffee shops), ramen joints, and bars for deeper local experiences.
Ryokan Sawanoya
An authentic ryokan experience
True ryokan in Tokyo are a rarity, but this Showa-era, 12-room property dating back to 1949 is located on a sleepy backstreet in Yanaka, near Ueno, and offers travelers a taste of old Tokyo. Expect the usual ryokan amenities: sliding shoji screens, tatami...
True ryokan in Tokyo are a rarity, but this Showa-era, 12-room property dating back to 1949 is located on a sleepy backstreet in Yanaka, near Ueno, and offers travelers a taste of old Tokyo. Expect the usual ryokan amenities: sliding shoji screens, tatami mats, futons rolled out nightly, and washi-paper lanterns hanging from wooden ceilings. The two Japanese-style baths are the standout. One is cypress wood, the other is ceramic, but both overlook a lush and mossy private garden strewn with stone lanterns and glossy plants. Bonus point for the laundry room and rental bicycles.
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Our Contributors
Adam H. Graham Writer
Adam H. Graham is an American food and travel journalist based in Zurich, Switzerland. He’s a frequent contributor to the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Afar, and more. He typically spends a few months every year in Japan, and recently spent several weeks visiting Japanese vineyards in several different prefectures.
