A Taste of St. Barts
Offering both a sense of exploration and preservation, the island’s cuisine blends its native flavors with those that arrive on its shores.
IN CALIFORNIA, WE’VE been experiencing a series of “atmospheric rivers,” which sounds romantic — let me assure you, it’s not. An “atmospheric river” is just a nice way of saying it’s raining ... a lot, maybe forever. As I hot-spot wifi from my phone during a power outage caused by another downpour, I’m living vicariously through my fellow editors’ far-flung travels to sunnier climes. I would give almost anything to eat shrimp tacos at a boutique hotel in the Yucatán or read a personal letter from Frances Ford Coppola explaining why he loves his Buenos Aires hotel’s gardens while sitting in said gardens (more details below). And then there’s a hotel on the remote and tantalizingly secluded Easter Island. Atmospheric river or not, for all of us in the Northern hemisphere, it’s been a long winter. I can’t think of a better time to get out. — Laura Smith
Poolside Paradise in Yucatán
Punta Caliza, Holbox Mexico
The magical island of Holbox, located off Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, is home to Punta Caliza, a boutique hotel run by the Muñoz family. Upon arrival, I’m greeted by Sienna (the family’s whippet), Elvira (the mother), and Cuauhtémoc (the father), who all live in Holbox and manage the hotel. We chat about the island’s laidback spirit as I enjoy some of the best shrimp tacos I’ve ever tasted. (I eat them at least once a day during my seven-day stay.) This exquisitely designed property has 12 guest rooms, constructed from cedar trees that Cuauhtémoc planted almost 30 years ago on the family farm in Tabasco. The centerpiece, however, is a tranquil pool — and every room also has its own private plunge pool. Claudia (the daughter), an architecture student, collaborated on the design with her professors Magui Peredo Arenas and Salvador Macías Corona. Temoc (the son) reports that his love of food inspired him to open a sister restaurant (also called Temoc) on the island. Next door is Apollo, Claudia’s latest project, a concept shop filled with artisan goods from different communities and makers around Mexico. Collectively, the Muñoz family’s love for design and hospitality ensures you’ll want to return to Punta Caliza again and again. — Elissa Polls
Living the Upstate Dream
Wildflower Farms, Gardiner, NY
I visited Wildflower Farms, the newest property from Auberge Resorts, in Gardiner, New York, on one of the last crisp weekends of winter in the Hudson Valley. My husband and I kicked off our stay with a focaccia workshop, enjoyed coffee near the fire, and dipped into the outdoor hot tub before indulging in the New American menu at Clay. Our cabin — one of 65 — was nestled in the woods, with a private patio ideal for enjoying the gentle rushing of the nearby river. The space itself, designed by the architects at Electric Bowery, was thoughtfully stocked with non-alcoholic spirits and snacks from local purveyors. As I walked its heated floors, sipping the reishi mushroom tincture left by my bedside, it occurred to me that we were living a fantasy of upstate life. And that was before I fed the property’s chickens, hand-selected our breakfast eggs, and enjoyed a thistle massage at the spa. — Hailey Andresen
Advertisement
An Inspiring Home Base
Be Jardín Escondido by Coppola, Buenos Aires
Francis Ford Coppola’s hotels have held a special place in my heart since I stayed at his first hospitality venture, Blancaneaux Lodge, a verdant oasis in Belize’s misty mountains. Coppola wrote to me while I was on assignment there, sharing what drew him to his various properties. At Blancaneaux Lodge, it was “the fact that it was hidden.” At Guatemala’s La Lancha, “it was the thrill of being awakened by the roar of the howler monkeys and the uniquely great food.” But his description of Be Jardín Escondido, his former home in Buenos Aires, where he lived while working on his film “Tetro,” stood out. What drew Coppola here — where I sit writing at this very moment, sun warming my arms, flecks dancing in the hazy light, the savory scent of a succulent parilla drifting across the air — “was the labyrinth of gardens, magical, where plays could be written, poems composed, and novels imagined.” Set in an historical home with only seven rooms, Jardín Escondido defines “an intimate stay.” Handsome, life-worn furniture lines the first floor’s common area, alongside art and old books. Light bounces off the glossed brown-brick flooring, creating an illusion of shimmering water. The exterior walls are a dramatic red, near burnt orange in the sun and oxblood by night. But one of the best things about Jardín Escondido is its location, nestled within the vibrant Palermo Soho neighborhood. It’s a warm, charmingly curated home base for exploring the riches of the city, where you can get lost in the streets, and find inspiration at every corner, as Coppola himself would have wanted. — Sophie Mancini
High Style in the Hudson Valley
Habitas on Hudson, Staatsburg, NY
I recently had the good fortune to visit the very new Habitas on Hudson, located just minutes south of Rhinebeck, New York, with stunning views of the Catskills. The only U.S. outpost of the famed Habitas resort group, it’s a stately Georgian manor on the outside, while the inside is a cheekily curated mix of art and style. The afternoon of my stay, Chef Nick Cox was offering a pasta-making lesson, and the result was so outrageously delicious I immediately bought myself a pasta maker. Other highlights of my stay included a tart, tasty mocktail; Nick’s gorgeous multi-course dinner of sea bass, roasted baby bok choy, broccolini, and cucumber salad; a meditative sound bath; and a deep-tissue massage — all of which left me so satiated and relaxed, I packed my bag vowing to return in warmer months. — Alex Brodsky
Crescent City Cool
Maison de la Luz, New Orleans
New Orleans and hospitality go hand in hand. The Crescent City’s foray into luxury accommodations is at an all-time high — with stylish, new properties popping up every year. Maison de la Luz, one of Atelier Ace’s luxury expansion properties, is a gem in one of its best neighborhoods. Situated in the Central Business District, this 67-room hotel is within walking distance of the French Quarter, uptown’s famed Garden District, my favorite brunch spot, Willa Jean, and Seaworthy restaurant, where the Murder Point oysters are the best oysters I’ve tried on either coast. Plus, this impeccably designed property is the ideal place to relax your head, enjoy a cocktail from the lobby’s honor bar or a nightcap at the in-house speakeasy, Bar Marilou. Designed in collaboration with Studio Shamshiri, the interiors are eccentric and modern with just the right amount of flavor to match the city’s notoriously intoxicating character. Finally, don’t forget to swing by reception, where the friendly and knowledgeable staff offer insider and local tips to make your visit even more special. — Elissa
Our Contributors
Hailey Andresen Writer
Hailey Andresen is the guides editor at Departures. A New York–based writer and editor, she founded the digital lifestyle publication Household Mag and has spent more than a decade in the hospitality industry.
Alexandra Brodsky Writer
In addition to her work with Departures, Alexandra Brodsky is a filmmaker and photographer. Her films have been screened at venues such as the Museum of Modern Art, the Tribeca Film Festival, and the American Film Institute. Recent photography publications and exhibits include Index Magazine, Pearl Press, Humble Arts Foundation, Too Tired Press, and Charcoal Book Club’s Chico Review. She is an alumnus of the Screenwriters’ Colony in Nantucket, the Film Independent’s Screenwriters Lab, and a Fulbright Scholar. She is also a founder of Quality Pictures, with Mary Stuart Masterson and Cassandra Del Viscio, a Hudson Valley–based production company making quality entertainment for social impact.
Sophie Mancini Writer
Sophie Mancini is an editor at Departures. Born and raised in New York City, she holds a degree in creative writing from Johns Hopkins University and has a background as a writer in brand and editorial.
Elissa Polls Writer
Elissa Polls is the senior director of content production for Departures. A producer who typically stays behind the scenes, she has worked with creatives from around the world, helping bring their ideas to life. Polls has over 15 years of production experience and lives in Berkeley, California.
Laura Smith Writer
Laura Smith is the deputy editor of Departures. Previously, she was the executive editor of California magazine and has written for the New York Times, the Guardian, the Atlantic, and many more. Her nonfiction book, The Art of Vanishing, was published by Viking in 2018.
