A Local’s Guide to Rome
According to this long-time resident, Rome today is an eclectic fusion of ancient riches and modern delights.
IF YOU FIND yourself in Abu Dhabi, it’s best to leave with a little sand in your shoes. There’s the fine, white city sand from the Persian Gulf beaches and the spice-red, iron-oxide-topped dunescape deeper in the desert. An ideal trip to the region will tell a story of both experiences — one hypermodern, one as ancient as storytelling itself.
The United Arab Emirates’ capital city is chic and modern, and home to hundreds of nationalities and cultures, including nearly 9 million expats across the UAE. During a recent trip to the area, I reached out to two of them — Kristen and Ev Bend, a married team of designers and world travelers who document their journeys on Instagram at @thesabbatimoon — for tips on how to explore the area’s varied landscapes, cuisine, and styles of hospitality. Together, we made a diverse itinerary, including everything from urban fine dining to resorts offering every manner of adventure in the Empty Quarter, which is the unbroken swath of desert that covers a huge portion of the Arabian Peninsula.
Where to Eat and Drink
Tashas Al Bateen
Chill marina vibes and alfresco Spanish bites
A hangout beloved by creative locals and expats alike, Tashas shines for its Basque-influenced brunch fare, vibrant people-watching, dazzling yet cozy interiors, and waterside setting. If you can steal a seat in the shade, I recommend spending the...
A hangout beloved by creative locals and expats alike, Tashas shines for its Basque-influenced brunch fare, vibrant people-watching, dazzling yet cozy interiors, and waterside setting. If you can steal a seat in the shade, I recommend spending the morning easing your jet lag with a cold cappuccino, a celery pineapple juice, and a variety of seafood pintxos (snacks), like fried squid heads or grilled prawns. If you arrive hungrier, the paella is a standout.
Fishmarket
Seafood heaven on the beach
At the upscale Thai-influenced Fishmarket, near the InterContinental Abu Dhabi, you can find baskets of freshly caught and still-scuttling seafood. Sip Singhas by the beach and enjoy an array of grilled and fried shellfish, filets, and greens. The pinnacle: a...
At the upscale Thai-influenced Fishmarket, near the InterContinental Abu Dhabi, you can find baskets of freshly caught and still-scuttling seafood. Sip Singhas by the beach and enjoy an array of grilled and fried shellfish, filets, and greens. The pinnacle: a tender and flavorful red snapper in red curry. If you’re looking for something more casual, the Al Mina farmers market, a clean and spacious warehouse, is the locals’ pick where vendors offer fresh fish and vegetables in bulk or chopped and grilled to your liking.
Beirut Sur Mer
The city’s best Lebanese
I'm lucky to have married into a Lebanese family whose handwritten recipes — originating in Zahlé, in the Beqaa Valley — are now time-tested staples. Abu Dhabi has no lack of commendable Lebanese cuisine, but Beirut Sur Mer, near the Louvre on Saadiyat...
I'm lucky to have married into a Lebanese family whose handwritten recipes — originating in Zahlé, in the Beqaa Valley — are now time-tested staples. Abu Dhabi has no lack of commendable Lebanese cuisine, but Beirut Sur Mer, near the Louvre on Saadiyat Island, is one of the few that can pass what we call “the Grandma Edna test.” You’ll find a vibrant mix of authentic mezze. I highly recommend the tlametna, a trio of za’atar- and cheese-topped mankousheh breads dipped in cucumber labneh; followed by a thoughtfully assembled fattoush salad and kofta in a spicy tahini. The waitstaff has strong and conflicting opinions about which items are the most delicious, and they are all correct. Diners have clearly caught on: It’s a popular spot, so book a table in advance.
Antonia
An Italian cafe by Soul Beach
If you’re eager to get out of the midday sun and cool off with a Campari spritz, follow the crowds to Antonia, an Italian cafe with retro vibes and an idyllic beachside view, and while away the afternoon until the temperature drops. Hungry? You can’t go wrong...
If you’re eager to get out of the midday sun and cool off with a Campari spritz, follow the crowds to Antonia, an Italian cafe with retro vibes and an idyllic beachside view, and while away the afternoon until the temperature drops. Hungry? You can’t go wrong with the Trentino, Italy–sourced beef carpaccio, a crispy margherita slice, and cannoli filled with goat’s-milk ricotta.
Where to Stay
The Abu Dhabi Edition
A premium stay for business travelers
There is no better stay for business and long-term remote work. Overlooking the Al Bateen Marina, the Edition offers short- and long-term accommodations in contemporary digs, plus a comfortable lounge space for group collaboration. Don’t miss the...
There is no better stay for business and long-term remote work. Overlooking the Al Bateen Marina, the Edition offers short- and long-term accommodations in contemporary digs, plus a comfortable lounge space for group collaboration. Don’t miss the hotel’s many offerings: its spa, tearoom, and steakhouse Oak Room, as well as its Library Bar, whose gin cocktails are top-notch. At the hotel’s oak-slatted, plant-filled Market cafe, I suggest a mini bagel-and-lox sandwich, served with a thin slice of beet in the middle for extra crunch. The location may be the hotel’s biggest selling point: The marina offers a rare opportunity to explore an Abu Dhabi neighborhood on foot, with stellar cafe and dining options a jog away.
Qasr Al Sarab by Anantara
A desert adventure retreat
This is a must-see oasis in the Rub’ al-Khali desert: the majestic Anantara property Qasr Al Sarab, located on 190,000 acres of cinnamon-colored hills, a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi. The resort is well worth the trip, offering camel riding,...
This is a must-see oasis in the Rub’ al-Khali desert: the majestic Anantara property Qasr Al Sarab, located on 190,000 acres of cinnamon-colored hills, a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi. The resort is well worth the trip, offering camel riding, falconry, hiking, and dune bashing (which is essentially desert off-roading). If you’re looking for adventure, try hiking a mile uphill to sandboard by the light of a bucket-list desert sunset — or if rejuvenation is more your thing, spend sunny afternoons post-massage in your villa’s private plunge pool, sipping iced Spanish lattes while looking out on the otherworldly landscape. It’s hard to fake the breeziness and camaraderie of the Qasr Al Sarab team, who live on-site, are accessible via WhatsApp for anything you need, and roam the expansive property in buggies, offering welcome lifts to sun-weary travelers.
The Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Villas
A hotel with a scene-stealing pool with excellent cuisine
This is a destination hotel whose varied menus never disappoint, from the fresh coconuts that greet you in your room to the ponzu-glazed salmon crudo and lemon cheesecake from the aptly named Beach House restaurant. At the...
This is a destination hotel whose varied menus never disappoint, from the fresh coconuts that greet you in your room to the ponzu-glazed salmon crudo and lemon cheesecake from the aptly named Beach House restaurant. At the hotel’s lively Argentinian-Lebanese spot Maté, chef de cuisine Julian Harguindey serves up humita (spicy corn pudding), wagyu kofta, and brown-butter sweet potato. The grounds are equally impressive: Its poolside cabanas and beachside tables are so attractive, they practically book themselves. Prime seats fill quickly, so I recommend putting your towel down as early as possible. The Park Hyatt is for escape, not cultural immersion, but its central Abu Dhabi location makes it easy to hop to Jubail Island for a mangrove walk, Warehouse421 for artistic inspiration (both below), and Soul Beach for a lazy spritz by the sand (see Antonia, above).
Al Wathba, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa
A contemporary desert experience
For those seeking a restorative desert adventure but lacking ample time to travel deeper into the Empty Quarter, Marriott’s Al Wathba is a Goldilocks property. This expansive and modern resort offers a exceptional...
For those seeking a restorative desert adventure but lacking ample time to travel deeper into the Empty Quarter, Marriott’s Al Wathba is a Goldilocks property. This expansive and modern resort offers a exceptional complimentary spa experience with cold and hot plunge pools, an ice-bucket room, an ice-caked snow room, a sauna and steam room, and a central Jacuzzi — plus expert massage services. While it’s tempting to linger in the spa indefinitely, the villas come with tranquil backyard plunge pools and gorgeous outdoor majlises, or sitting spaces.
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Where to Explore
Louvre Abu Dhabi
An architectural wonder and museum
Yes, Abu Dhabi has its own Louvre, and, yes, it’s stunning inside and out: The building is an architectural wonder that seems to float in a shallow pool. But the best — nay, the only — way to comprehend the museum’s massive scale and intricate design is...
Yes, Abu Dhabi has its own Louvre, and, yes, it’s stunning inside and out: The building is an architectural wonder that seems to float in a shallow pool. But the best — nay, the only — way to comprehend the museum’s massive scale and intricate design is to kayak around the perimeter and gaze up at the underside of the 7,500-ton exterior dome. Architect Jean Nouvel designed a complex lattice structure, reminiscent of both an Arabic cupola and a DNA double helix, that filters the shifting daylight into luminescent petals on the concrete floor and surrounding water. Finding the kayak tour itself is like a video-game quest: Arrive before sunset and ask a gate agent, who will plant you on a golf cart and send you to a dock nearby. It’s an unforgettable, enchanting experience — all before you even step inside, where you can explore art from prehistory to the present day.
Warehouse421
A gallery for local art and design
If the Louvre Abu Dhabi is Goliath, the humble Warehouse421 is David. It’s a community-oriented spotlight on local art and design, featuring up-and-coming visual talent alongside a student library, bookshop, souk (or market), and cafe. They have featured the...
If the Louvre Abu Dhabi is Goliath, the humble Warehouse421 is David. It’s a community-oriented spotlight on local art and design, featuring up-and-coming visual talent alongside a student library, bookshop, souk (or market), and cafe. They have featured the Hundred Best Arabic Posters, a graphic design competition with a spotlight on Arabic typography; and indoor installations curated by Abu Dhabi architectural designer Mona Al-Jadir, who highlights marginalized Middle Eastern histories as a counterpart to the UAE’s focus on futurism. Check out the gallery's excellent Auro cafe, where I got a second (and third) wind from over-generous samples of espresso and coconut latte. You’ll want to grab a bag of light, fruit-forward Ethiopian Djimmah beans to take home with you.
Jubail Mangrove Park
A departure from city life
This is an easy boardwalk stroll around a gorgeous wetland preserve where vertical mangrove roots poke their skinny heads above the water and tiny fish swim inches underneath large overwater lounging nets. Halfway through the walk, you’ll find a...
This is an easy boardwalk stroll around a gorgeous wetland preserve where vertical mangrove roots poke their skinny heads above the water and tiny fish swim inches underneath large overwater lounging nets. Halfway through the walk, you’ll find a modest beach where you can take off your shoes and wade into the blue. I suggest bringing a meditation playlist, sitting on the dock, and winding down: You never know when a flamingo might join you for a breather.
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Cooper Fleishman Writer
Cooper Fleishman is Senior Director of Audience Development at Departures. Based in Brooklyn, he is a writer, editor, content director, and growth strategist with more than a decade’s experience in digital media. He previously led news and audience for MEL magazine, directed technology and culture news at Mic.com, and managed the New York bureau for the Daily Dot. He writes about style, travel, technology, and music.
