FOR THE MOST part, we have a pretty clear idea of what a fine watch should look like — round or less often rectangular (like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso) at the face, absolutely precise and symmetrical, and finished with either a leather strap or a gold, silver, or steel bracelet. Tradition is a virtue when it comes to timepieces, and, with a few exceptions (the unbelievable Cartier Crash comes to mind), the best brands are nobly unwavering in their consistency, making them stalwarts in a cacophonic consumer age. Reliability is the point.

And yet, every now and then, a company throws a delicious curveball. Dior’s Gem collection has reinvented the shape and feel of the watch with an alluring asymmetrical twist, sweetly inspired by the little fabric swatches Monsieur Dior used for his couture collections. Designed by Dior Joaillerie’s celebrated creative director Victoire de Castellane and launched in 2021, the style reveals the beauty of the slightly jagged and off-kilter. The shape of the Dior Gem watch is meant to provoke a second glance, recalling something made by the human hand – perfectly imperfect. As de Castellane once said, “We are all asymmetric.” And asymmetry has been a hallmark of the jewelry division since it was founded in the ’90s.

With a face circumscribed by diamonds on most of the designs, it looks like an archaeological discovery, a precious jewel chipped out of a prehistoric stone. In creating it, Dior has done what all masterful artisans aspire to: Make something new feel immediately classic, create a fresh entry into the iconography of a design category, and offer up a silhouette that works so smashingly it now feels like an essential.