Real Mexican, with a Twist

Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera lands in Manhattan.

Cosme, the first American outpost for genre-bending Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera, is a sleek new restaurant (bare concrete walls and floors, wood tables and a long bar well-stocked with mezcal) on the site of a former gentlemen’s club in Manhattan’s Flatiron district. At Pujol— his flagship in Mexico’s capital, recently named one of the world’s best restaurants—Olvera runs imaginative variations on tradition, serving dishes like soft tacos filled with wild mushrooms and tomato seeds. His food at Cosme is equally unexpected. No nachos or combination plates here, just tender octopus with atole (a corn-based beverage) and avocado; meringue filled with sweet fresh corn mousse topped with burned-husk powder. “Our food is Mexican,” says Olvera, “because we’re Mexican.”

At 35 E. 21st St.; 212-913-9659.