New Frontiers: The Best of Hungarian White Wine

The centuries-old wine is finally making headway in the United States. Here are the eight bottles to explore as summer winds down.

Alex Staniloff
OF 9

Fanni Kertje Dry Szamorodni 1999

Szamordni means “as it comes off the vine,” and as a result, this dark, amber-colored wine may be a bit of a shock—but only in the best way. It has the rich, oxidized taste of an Olorosso sherry. Some of the grapes are subjected to a desirable fungus called botrytis, which is usually the source of world-class sweet wines. But this one, which is held back from release so that it develops in the bottle, is dry, complex and delightful. Serve with a rich stew.