The centuries-old wine is finally making headway in the United States. Here are the eight bottles to explore as summer winds down.
Fanni Kertje Dry Szamorodni 1999
Szamordni means “as it comes off the vine,” and as a result, this dark, amber-colored wine may be a bit of a shock—but only in the best way. It has the rich, oxidized taste of an Olorosso sherry. Some of the grapes are subjected to a desirable fungus called botrytis, which is usually the source of world-class sweet wines. But this one, which is held back from release so that it develops in the bottle, is dry, complex and delightful. Serve with a rich stew.