From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

World's Top Steaks

MOST READ
The Write Stuff

Design

The Write Stuff

A dip into the world of luxurious fountain pens.

The Perfect Pour

Wine and Spirits

The Perfect Pour

A deep dive into the world of Macallan Scotch whisky.

David Lynch Transcendental Meditation Interview

Self-Care

The Deep Dive

A light conversation with David Lynch on Transcendental Meditation, the unified...

Eating at a steak house used to be an exercise inmasculinity. The quality of the experience was determined by how ancient thewaiters were, how gruff the service was and how few choices were on the menu.The steak—invariably USDA prime or Black Angus—came second, more as prop forconversation and an excuse for male bonding. Like a set piece passed on one’sway into the dining room.

That’s all changed. Now the best steak houses arehelmed by touchy-feely types who can—and will—tell you the life story of eachcow that crosses your plate. In fact, the life of the cow has become just asimportant (if not more important) as the quality of the char. What the cow ate,where it ate, how it lived and how it died have become the indicators ofquality.

A prime example is Brooklyn’s St. Anselm, which ownerJoe Carroll insists it’s not a steak house, even though lines form for his redmeat. Carroll, who sources his beef from Oregon’s Masami Ranch, can talk allabout the relationships between steer and farmer, farmer and land and farm totable. Meanwhile, in Montreal, all ingredients in Joe Beef’s kitchen fall intothe co-owners Fred Morin and David Macmillan’s philosophy of “if we can drivethere in the afternoon.”

The ways in which steaks are being prepared has becomemore innovative, too. Take, for example, the a la carte steak menu atPortland’s Laurelhurt Market, which is also a butcher shop. The meat comes fromlocal purveyors and is served in all kinds of fancy ways, from steak frites togrilled flat iron steak to grilled rib eye to 12-hour smoked wagyu brisket.

To get a taste for this new kind of beef, here aresteaks to eat before you die—from eating too much steak.

Newsletter

Let’s Keep in Touch

Subscribe to our newsletter

You’re no longer on our newsletter list, but you can resubscribe anytime.

Come On In

U.S. issued American Express Platinum Card® and Centurion® Members, enter the first six digits of your card number to access your complimentary subscription.

Learn about membership.