From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

What’s Cooking in New Orleans

MOST READ
Sweet Dreams Are Made of These

Self-Care

Sweet Dreams Are Made of These

A trio of new sleep-friendly devices to help you get more than 40 winks.

Endless Spring

Wine and Spirits

Endless Spring

From the author of “Drink Lightly,” a low-alcohol cocktail with fresh strawberry.

Peeling Back the Layers

Beauty

Peeling Back the Layers

Facialist Joanna Vargas goes deep on the best ways to exfoliate.

Borgne

Like the restaurant Domenica (which is helmed by Israeli-born chef Alon Shaya), Borgne is also a John Besh project. Named for a brackish lake east of New Orleans, where Isleño immigrants from the Canary Islands settled in the early 20th century, the restaurant squats on the ground floor of a Hyatt. Flatscreen TVs cantilever above the tarmac-length bar. Hanging chalkboards inscribed with recent catches by record-breaking bass and drum fishermen divide the gymnasium space into dining rooms.

Chef Brian Landry, a New Orleans native, made his bones at Galatoire’s, the city’s bastion of Creole cooking. He does right by old-guard standards like mirliton-and-shrimp casserole served in a cast-iron skillet. Ditto oysters and spaghetti, nestled in a milky broth and laced with shaved bottarga. But he’s no everyday provincial. Landry also cooks Isleño dishes, like an appetizer of cured goat cheese stippled with mojo sauce and scattered with roasted hazelnuts. And his tossed salad, interspersed with heaps of basil and mint, was coined in homage to Father Vien Nguyen, the Catholic priest who led the post-Hurricane Katrina comeback of the local Vietnamese-American village of Versailles. At 601 Loyola Ave.; 504-613-3860; borgnerestaurant.com.

Root

Picture a tree house cut from its perch and deposited in the Warehouse District in sight of the cruise-ship dock. The palette is green and brown. The vibe is otherworldly. Ambient music breezes through the speakers. An Econo Floss cotton-candy machine crouches behind the bar.

Chef Phillip Lopez and his partners do not kowtow to the New Orleans canon. Instead, they crust smoked oysters with cornmeal, add a dollop of Manchego foam and serve them atop andouille spoon bread. Meanwhile, hanger steak earns a kumquat bordelaise. Fried chicken wings are glazed in pepper jelly. And—in what might be a bona fide trend—Vietnamese cooks get their due by way of a lemongrass broth poured over a pearlescent slab of panéed grouper and a tangle of rice vermicelli. At 200 Julia St.; 504-252-9480; rootnola.com.

Newsletter

Let’s Keep in Touch

Subscribe to our newsletter

You’re no longer on our newsletter list, but you can resubscribe anytime.

Come On In

U.S. issued American Express Platinum Card® and Centurion® Members, enter the first six digits of your card number to access your complimentary subscription.

Learn about membership.