From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

The Next Mojito?

Tonga Room, San Francisco.

Wine and Spirits

The Sweet Escape

On the enduring allure of the tiki bar.

A Classic Martini

Wine and Spirits

A Classic Martini

A drink from New York City’s Bemelmans Bar at the Carlyle Hotel

Sohm looks at the color and how fine the mousse is — the fine streams of bubbles — a sign of great quality.

Wine and Spirits

How to Drink Grower Champagne

Legendary sommelier Aldo Sohm on rarer bubbles.

"What no-body knows is that my passion for food started when I was six. Together with Juana, the voluptuous family cook who was also my best friend, I would combine two kilos of purple corn with two pine- apple slices, a cinnamon stick, sugar, and water and make buckets of chicha morada (a drink invented by the Incas that is still served in Peruvian markets). Then we'd gather forgotten tables and chairs from the garage and sit in the front door under the olive trees until sunset: 'Chichaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, chichaaaaaaaaaaaaa, rica chicha, dos soles chicha...' Every day by 4 p.m. the chicha was finished and Gastoncito, the little fat boy from 274 San Isidro, would count soles—preparing for the next journey to the market, dreaming of tender chicken wings and fresh fish. Sadly, to this day I regret (God forgive me!) not having paid royalties to Juana, the author of the famous chicha morada recipe— my first recipe and the seeds of my first restaurant."

Gaston Acurio owns 11 restaurants, including the acclaimed Astrid y Gaston in Lima.


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