On the Komm

It was only a matter of time before molecular cuisine—that fine art of transforming food into whimsy—showed up in Mos­cow. Anatoly Komm, called a genius by food critics here, is the man to thank. In his hands crab isn't crab, it's a foamy concoction that belongs in a hall of wonder. Komm has five Moscow res­tau­rants; his eponymous eatery (12 Kutu­­zov­sky Prospekt; 7-495/725-5575) has been billed as a gastro­nom­ic spectacle, where meals can run up to $250 a head.