Is there any more food more representative of New York City than pizza? Let’s be honest, it’s not a crunchy red fruit people crave when in the Big Apple. And we’re not just talking paper-plate slices. The Italian import long ago took hold in the collective conscience of New Yorkers, who’ve made it their own over and over with disparate takes on the dough, sauce and cheese. Some of the boroughs’ best stick loyally to making Naples-style pies with lightly charred, bubbling crusts, while others sling stuff with a more liberal take. When it comes to the finest of gourmet pizzas the biggest surprise may be that Brooklyn represents a stronghold.
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Kesté Pizza & Vino
A decade in, Kesté and its wood-fired brick oven pizzas are still at the top of their game. Tangy, savory, ever so charred, the crust effortlessly hits notes others strive for. This Greenwich Village eatery is small in size, but not in flavor. Inside the simple, narrow exposed-brick dining room, the pies are what stand out, thanks to their commitment to making authentic Neapolitan pizza. All the toppings, from rapini to Italian sausage and prosciutto to artichoke feel perfectly Italian, but it’s hard to get better than the must-order Regina Margherita. 271 Bleecker St., 212-243-1500
Courtesy Emmy Squared
Emmy Squared
Is it blasphemous to claim Detroit-style pizza one of New York’s best? The home base of Emmy Squared, founded by Matt and Emily Hyland (also the pair behind Emily), is in the Big Apple, though it’s since expanded around the country, bringing its square pies with them. Whether at the original Williamsburg location or in the East Village, the pizzas are instantly recognizable well beyond their shape—they feature the sauce on top. It’s the elevated version of what you most sought as a kid: crispy almost-burned cheese on soft, fluffy dough holding up colorful meats, herbs and veggies, or in the case of the Margarita, burrata and basil. 83 1st Ave., 917-463-3737
Courtesy Razza
Razza Pizza Artigianale
This is a place that’s caused serious uproar as foodies questioned whether the best pizza in New York was actually in New Jersey. Razza’s pies do call for careful consideration, thanks to their painstaking pursuit of perfection. Under high industrial ceilings they use flour milled in Clifton, and grow their own yeast culture for a better dough. Ingredients are dictated by the season and sourced from New Jersey farms for a final product that’s unabashedly blistered, chewy and balanced, with just the right amount of melty Sussex County buffalo mozzarella, local heirloom tomato sauce and innovative toppings—and a dash of hand-selected sea salt. 275 Grove St., Jersey City, 201-356-9348
Courtesy Roberta's
Roberta’s
New Yorkers don’t seem to mind waiting in line, a good thing since especially in its early days, more than a decade ago, the wait to tuck into this Bushwick pizzeria’s multifaceted pies could last a few hours. It was—and is—so delectable it actually got people to Bushwick. The humbly decorated resto that’s expanded quite substantially since still bakes perhaps the best margherita in the city in its wood-fired oven, but there’s something to be said for its original combinations of ingredients. Think honey, chili, sopressata on the iconic Bee Sting, and pork sausage, onions, capers and jalapeño on the Beastmaster. 261 Moore St., Brooklyn, 718-417-1118
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Lucali
It’s not because Jay Z eats at Lucali that it’s made this list, but the undeniable fact is that the rapper can have whatever pizza he wants, and so the fact he chooses Lucali says something about the quality of the super-simple yet sought-after pies and calzone. The iconic pizza master Dom DeMarco of Di Fara inspired Mark Iacono to open the intimate pizza shop, in 2006, and since then fans have lined up, hopeful of being added to the night’s list at 5 p.m. sharp for the opportunity to order neo-Neapolitan pies topped with their pick of no-fuss ingredients, plus basil and garlic, naturally. 575 Henry St., Brooklyn, 718-858-4086
Courtesy Paulie Gee's
Paulie Gee’s
No reservations may be a hallmark of the greatest pizza restaurants, since this Brooklyn institution is also marked by long queues before the sun has even thought about starting to set. Candlelit and rustic, it’s a romantic environment in which to savor creative pies—a couple dozen, plus a slew of vegan options—with expressive monikers such as A Whiter Shade of Kale, Ricotta Be Kiddin’ Me, Arugula Shmoogula, Hellboy and Better Off Fed. At the heart of the heat is the custom Stefano Ferrara brick oven. It’s an experience to be sure, but for those without the time to linger there’s now a dedicated slice shop, too. 60 Greenpoint Ave., Brooklyn, 347-987-3747
Courtesy Pasquale Jones
Pasquale Jones
Posh but far from stuffy, the Nolita pizzeria from the Charlie Bird team is testament to the fact that nothing complements incredible pizza like fantastic wine—in a perfect Zalto glass. So while it’s the clam pizza—decadently strewn with salty, freshly shucked Littleneck clams with a briny sauce, garlic, lemon, bitter broccoli rabe and cream—that’s undoubtedly the main event, there’s plenty to keep diners within its exposed-brick walls for several acts, think vintage Dom Perignon, Montauk scallops and $125 dry-aged ribeye grilled over hardwood charcoal. 187 Mulberry St.
Courtesy Rubirosa
Rubirosa
Rubirosa looks exactly as you’d hope for a New York City pizzeria that feels neighborhood-y enough to be in your regular restaurant rotation but with food special enough that it’s appreciated each and every time. The family behind Staten Island’s Joe & Pat runs the red sauce mecca, where the pies are paper-thin and some are topped with delicious vodka sauce. There are plenty of other dishes that shine (and even extensive gluten-free options), but the large New York–style pizzas—especially the photogenic Tie-Dye, swirled with pesto—are the best way to pay homage to the city. 235 Mulberry St., 212-965-0500
Biz Jones/Courtesy Juliana's
Juliana’s
World-famous pizzaiolo Patsy Grimaldi is not actually the one firing up pies at DUMBO’s Grimaldi’s these days—he’s at Juliana’s, his circa 2012 eatery that reclaimed his beloved hand-built coal-fired oven. The setting may not be super sophisticated, but the pizza is. Grimaldi’s O.G. approach to mouthwatering thin-crust pies is alive and well. It’s named for his mother, whose older brother found the also-iconic Patsy’s Pizzeria in the ‘30s. While it’s hard to go wrong with any of the simple pies decorated with premium toppings, the No. 1 is a true revelation, with scamorza affumicata, pancetta, scallions and Oregon-grown white truffles. 19 Old Fulton St., Brooklyn, 718-596-6700
Courtesy Una Pizza Napoletana
Una Pizzeria Napoletana
This favorite Neapolitan-style pizzeria is a bit of a tease—it moved to San Francisco for a decade only to return in 2018 to its original home on the East Coast. The master, Anthony Mangieri, is a bit obsessive about dough, a fact for which anyone who’s tried his blistered, chewy goodness is eternally grateful. Simple decor inside the pizza mecca lets the small collection of pies sing. The are are no substitutions allowed (not that the $22 Margherita needs any help), and devotees know to come on Friday or Saturday for the Concetta and Apollonia, respectively, since the specialty concoctions are served just once a week. 175 Orchard St., 646-692-3475
