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$155,000 Watch Crafted Using Ancient Japanese Swordsman Techniques

Genus’ new design uses a rare metal.


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Yet again, watchmakers are pushing the boundaries when it comes to design. Just after HYT released its fluid-filled watch and Montblanc created a timepiece featuring all the time zones, Swiss company Genus reveals its latest creation using the 17th century Japanese swordsmith technique called Mokume-gane.

The GNS1.2 TD was created using a process that involves hammering and folding the metal repeatedly. This incredibly hard task results in a unique appearance of multiple layers laminated together. What's more, is the watch is made from Damascene Titanium, a metal rarely found in watches and is three times stronger than steel (yet 40 percent lighter). Temperatures of 2,192 to 2,552 degrees Fahrenheit are necessary to fire the piece, which only enhances the metal's durability.

Related: From Watches & Wonders 2020, These Are the Most Exciting Watch Releases on the Market Now

During the heating process, the watchmakers add a blue dye over an open flame, highlighting the metal layers creating a unique tie-dye look. It's even more stunning when set with the 43mm case.

"An ancient technique that involves a savoir-faire as challenging as it is subtle," reads the company's Instagram description of the watch. "In the heart of the forge, the hammering and folding of layer upon layer of titanium is a craft reserved for the best. The hues obtained through blueing-by-hand over an open flame are unique to each watch."

Those purchasing the timepiece actually have the option to watch this part of the process and decide on other details like the finish (matte, satin or polished).

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Other details include a manually wound movement--which took home the top Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève for 2019—housed within an 18K gold in-house. It is water-resistant up to 100 feet and functions at 2.5 Hz or 18'000 vibrations per hour with a 50-hour power reserve. It's topped off with 26 jewels, and buyers can choose from hand-stitched calfskin or alligator.

The cost of such a rare piece? Prices start at $155,930.

Incredibly, all of this hard work and skill is being accomplished by a company that just launched last year.


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