Watch of the Week: Monsieur de Chanel

After five years of research and development, the storied French house debuts its first timepiece collection dedicated to men.

A new age is dawning at Chanel and it begins with the famed French house’s first-ever watch collection for men, the Monsieur de Chanel. After five years in research and development, the watch was unveiled this March in Basel, and hits select Chanel boutiques worldwide this month.

An Instant Jumping Hour watch with a Retrograde Minute indication, the timepiece is notable for more than just its novelty for the brand. Powered by a proprietary all-new, house-made, high-watchmaking movement—the 170-part Calibre 1—the timepiece pairs a numerical hour display (located at 6:00) with a retrograde minutes indication, shown on an arc above. Unlike the continuous circuit made by the hands of most analog watches, here the minutes count on an arc from 0 to 60 left to right, jumping back to 0 at the start of a new hour with a bit of dramatic flare. Individually, each of these complications are alluring, but together they are like an orchestrated dance, made all the more exciting by the continuous motion of a subsidiary seconds dial rooted at the base of the minutes indication.

The complications for this watch are integrated into the bottom plate of the manual-winding movement, enabling the 40mm watch to be thinner and more classical in size. Plus, the show continues on the backside of the watch, where the all-black, skeletonized movement is on full display.

Offered in 18-karat white gold (price: $36,000) and 18-karat proprietary beige gold (price: $34,500, pictured), just 150 numbered pieces of each version will be made in 2016.

For more limited-edition luxury watches for men read our reviews of the MB&F LM1 Silberstein and the A. Lange & Sohne Special-Edition Lange 1 Time Zone.