To him, no catwalk show is complete without boys in skirts and ruffled shorts and girls in ties, oversize buttons and awkwardly angular cuts—androgynous looks that have set him on the fast track to fame and infamy. So much so that LVMH has not only invested in his namesake label but also given him creative directorship of its Spanish luxury leather-goods purveyor, Loewe, with a view to turning it into a bona fide fashion player. Anderson, by the way, is just 30. Time will tell if his reiteration of signature motifs from his own label (such as dramatically rolled-up cuffs on men’s trousers) will breathe life into the catwalks of the once-moribund Loewe. But amid the statement pieces offered in his debut men’s and women’s collections were enough sumptuous separates, as well as covetable leather and travel accessories, to suggest that the designer has an acute customer focus to rival his knack for notoriety.