All That Glitters

Jewels by Annalu Ponti

"The stone knows the form," wrote Ezra Pound. The line from his Pisan Cantos reflects the philosophy behind Annalu Ponti's one-of-a-kind designs. The rare quality of the Indian keshi pearls on the necklace shown, for example, demanded length while their delicacy required the anchor of a substantial diamond butterfly. "The stones tell me what to do," says the Italian-born Ponti, whose exclusive clients pass her name along like a piece of highly classified information. In another of her signature butterflies, the warm blackness of an ebony brooch begged for the subtle sparkle of blue sapphires; a green diamond bracelet asked for a white diamond serpent as a counterpoint. The drawback to this artistic method? "Sometimes," Ponti says, "I'll discover a perfect diamond with nothing to say. I prefer the flawed stone that is full of life." Necklace, price upon request; 212-517-6367