Gem by Moto
The queen of the craft-sake scene is Marie Chiba, manager of the 13-seat Gem by Moto. Chiba won’t serve a sake unless she’s been to the brewery, smelled the fermentation, and, ideally, helped with the production. (She’s been highly involved in the recent sake revolution, supporting young brewers shaping the future of the rice wine.) The kitchen turns out a greatest hits of Japanese cuisine, from ramen to gyoza, all executed with flair.