Daroco

Italian food is experiencing a moment in Paris and this restaurant, in what was once Jean Paul-Gaultier’s flagship boutique, is generating the most excitement. The gorgous two-story space in the Galerie Vivienne covered arcade is fronted with floor to ceiling glass and inside it has exposed stone walls and mirrored ceilings. Rustic pastas, wood-fired pizzas like an excellent margherita with fior di latte cheese and tangy tomatoes from Mezzogiorno, and the grilled octopus appetizer with melon, ricotta, and marjoram are pleasing the fashion set. Waitstaff wear sailor shirts, a nod to Jean Paul, and the cocktails from acclaimed bartender Nico de Soto—like the Green Alligator with Pernod, absinthe, coconut milk, and pandan leaves—are spirit-driven and exotic.