Remarkably, decades after its opening in 1986, Maguy Le Coze’s opulent Michelin three-star restaurant feels as modern as ever. A renovation in 2011 kept the iconic architectural teak ceiling intact, but added an onyx bar with mother-of-pearl tiles. It’s now synonymous chef, Eric Ripert (who replaced Le Coze’s late brother in the kitchen in 1994), celebrates the sea at the highest order of luxury, with dishes like seared langoustine cradling a rich lobe of foie gras and accented with pickled hon shimeji mushrooms and sauce Périgord (made with madeira and truffles). Sommelier Aldo Sohm’s extensive wine list, which leans heavily on Burgundy, is one of the nation’s most renowned. He has his own (self-titled) wine bar across the plaza should you seek a pre- (or post-) dinner glass.