This bi-level space has something for everyone: a casual menu, including wood-fired pizzas, on the ground floor, and an inventive seasonal menu from chef Frédéric St-Aubin on the first. His unfussy preparations, including sea bass crudo with grapefruit, fennel, and mint, and tagliatelle with rabbit cacciatore, let the ingredients shine. There’s also a short, thoughtful list of mostly natural wines offered on both floors. (The restaurant is owned by Catherine Bélanger, who also runs the excellent Pullman Wine Bar next door.) Come summer, a takeout window serves excellent soft serve in flavors like salted caramel.