Plateau-Mont Royal
French Bistro

L’Express is the consummate bistro. Open since 1980, with its aproned waiters in white shirts and ties, checkered tile floors, and comforting din, it’s the most quintessentially French restaurant in this very French town. This where you go to sample textbook versions of antiquated French dishes, like classic oeuf à la mayonnaise or veal kidneys with mustard sauce, served in a no-frills manner over chunks of fried potatoes. Another perk: It’s open Sundays and Mondays, when most Montreal restaurants are closed.

3927 Rue St. DenisMontreal, Canada