A Cevicheria
A massive octopus sculpture by artist Joao Parrinha hanging over the dining room greets guests at chef Kiko Martins’ second Lisbon restaurant, where the focus is on Peruvian cuisine—especially fresh, flavorful ceviches. (One of them takes inspiration from Portugal, combining codfish and chickpea puree with olives and rosemary vinegar, but the very best is themost traditional take.) It’s a small space (and doesn’t take reservations), and those who want to see chefs at work should request one of the high chairs around the crescent-shape bar. If you have to wait, A Cevicheria has two standing tables on the sidewalk and a window from which it serves delicious corn nuts and potent Pisco Sours.