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August 21, 2013

A New Nantucket Restaurant

By Ted Loos | Restaurants

A New Nantucket Restaurant
Courtesy of The Proprietors Bar & Table

Nantucket is the most conservative of Massachusetts’s coastal getaways—the island prides itself on being more traditionally minded than casual Cape Cod or flashy Martha’s Vineyard.

So when The Proprietors Bar & Table opened at the end of June, just before the July 4 rush, there were a few raised eyebrows directed at the globally accented menu items. The island’s diners rarely see dishes like fluke sunomono with crunchy kimchee, smoked tomato mayo and basil or socca tart with beet salad, whipped feta, charred baby carrots and pistachios.

A few things allayed the concern of the locals. For starters, the food is uniformly delicious, served in a true Nantucket atmosphere that starts with the crisp, white clapboard home on India Street that houses the restaurant. Maritime touches and a pressed-tin bar front add to the classic feel. And there is already a familiar comfort level with the proprietors of Proprietors: Husband-and-wife team Michael and Orla LaScola run American Seasons, one of Nantucket’s best restaurants, and executive chef and co-owner Tom Berry has worked on the island in several incarnations over the years.

The eatery’s theme is the “well-traveled palate,” which Berry has developed with ingredients sourced from the island and its surrounding waters. If you go over Labor Day, the smoked bluefish fritters are a must-try among the appetizers, as is the halloumi cheese with eggplant puree. (The duck breast tiradito is pictured here.) Move on from there to the Point Judith squid—a New England food to be sure, but one given some international flair thanks to a seasoning of Espelette pepper from France. 9 India St.; 508-228-7477; proprietorsnantucket.com.