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March 19, 2014

Stunning Jewelry as Art by Victoire de Castellane

By Shannon Adducci | Jewelry

Stunning Jewelry as Art by Victoire de Castellane
© Victoire de Castellane. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery. Photography by Vito Flamminio

The redoubtable Dior Joaillerie designer Victoire de Castellane is turning wearable art inside out in her new exhibition “Precious Objects,” which showcases sculptures composed of fine jewelry displayed on various objects at New York’s Gagosian Gallery through April 5. “It’s important for me to show how jewelry can be presented when it is not worn,” said de Castellane during the show’s opening on March 11. “I like the idea of continuing the life of these pieces.”

Among the twentysome works in the exhibit, there are diamond earrings and rings set among large silver blocks, an approach inspired by sugar cubes. “It’s about playing with the abstract in that way,” she explains, “creating a sugar cube out of diamonds to show the crystallization.” (Lunae Lumen Satine Mummy Blue, 2013—made with yellow and white gold, platinum, emeralds, diamonds and colored lacquer—is pictured above.) Then there are her signature lacquered flower rings in psychedelic hues that hint at her work at Dior, where she has served as the company’s creative director of fine jewelry for more than 16 years.

This is de Castellane's second collection of sculptural works. She showed her first series, “Fleurs d’excès,” in 2011 at the Gagosian Gallery in Paris; highlights from it are also on display here (her inaugural show in New York). She says the main difference between the two exhibits relies on the use of larger precious stones like diamonds and emeralds in the newer works. “It’s very classical for me,” she says. “But even then I like to play with the extremes.” No carat counts are listed, but the gobstopper-sized gems speak for themselves. Through April 5; 980 Madison Ave.; 212-744-2313; gagosian.com.