Photo by Tasha Green
Last week the men’s shows in Milan showcased the collections for spring 2013. The sweltering July temperatures ensured that buyers and editors were in the mood for refreshing summer fashion. Some houses played it safe, presenting designs that exemplified the company in the most familiar of ways, while others pushed the envelope, imposing a level of futurism that menswear may never fully accept. Then there were those—like the five selected below—that hit it just right, balancing essential brand elements with forward-thinking innovation.
Etro: The most inspired collection thematically, referencing India and the Middle East—complete with turbans, mandarin collars and harem pants.
Bottega Veneta: Beautiful styles conjuring up images of the Southwest, with moccasins and ’60s-style suede tunics. Big, beautiful bags—what Bottega does best—also made their way down the runway.
Gucci (pictured): We know that Gucci’s Frida Giannini loves a ’70s reference, but this collection seemed a more refined riff on that theme, including elegant silk prints and perfectly proportioned jackets.
Missoni: The house of Missoni offered more Eastern-inspired looks: Moroccan feeling pieces played more with tonal hues than a mishmash of colors. The result was both fresh and soothing.
Burberry: The general rule of thumb is that three times makes a trend, so with metallics dominating the runway at Versace, Roberto Cavalli and Burberry, we knew they were on to something. Though quite a bit of shine came down Christopher Bailey’s runway, he was also clever enough to hide the glitter behind the lapel of a classic trench for a more wearable version of the trend.