Mumbai: Mumbai Modern

Courtesy Vasudha Thozhur/Sakshi Gallery

Prices for contemporary Indian art have skyrocketed—a painting by Mumbai artist T. V. Santhosh that went for $3,500 in 2004 sold this year for $140,000—and the gallery scene here has expanded to meet demand. There are signs of a slowdown, but these top dealers are thriving.

Bodhi Art

This two-level space in the Kala Ghoda district accommodates ambitiously scaled works: witty sculptural installations of important midcareer artists like Sudarshan Shetty and international star Subodh Gupta, for example. Owner Amit Judge has spaces in New York, Singapore, and Berlin plus his two here, and his involvement has transformed the Indian art market. 28 K. Dubash Marg and 14 Elphinston Estate, Malet Bunder Rd.;

Chatterjee & Lal

Husband and wife Mortimer Chatterjee and Tara Lal have dedicated their Colaba neighborhood gallery to new talent and cutting-edge work. Though the market for video, performance, and installation art is still nascent in India, they have backed a number of promising artists, like Nikhil Chopra and Rashid Rana. 1/18 Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Rd.;

Chemould Prescott Road

Owner Shireen Gandhy favors politically engaged work in varied media and has helped shape the careers of some of Mumbai’s best-known artists, including Atul Dodiya, Anju Dodiya, and Jitish Kallat, three painters who have recently experimented a bit with other media. Among India’s oldest galleries, Chemould moved in 2007 to a vast but slightly out-of-the-way location in the Fort district. Queens Mansion, G. Talwat-kar Marg;

Galerie Mirchandani+Steinruecke

Run by mother and daughter Usha Mirchandani and Ranjana Steinruecke, this tasteful, intimate space—tucked away on the second floor of a heritage building behind the Taj hotel—represents established painters like Jyothi Basu and Aji V. N., and emerging ones such as Rat-heesh T. and Abir Karmakar. It has also shown foreigners Kiki Smith and Jonathan Meese. 2 Sunny House, 16–18 Mereweather Rd.;

Sakshi Gallery

Once one of the most exciting galleries in Mumbai and now overshadowed by new entrants, Sakshi still produces occasional outstanding displays in its Colaba space. The proprietor, Geetha Mehra, has assembled a roster of excellent midcareer painters, among them Rekha Rodwittiya, Surendran Nair, and Vasudha Thozhur. Tanna House, 11A Nathalal Parekh Marg;

Expert Advice

Mumbai’s galleries are often up rickety staircases, down tiny streets, and in hidden alleys, so we recommend bringing along an insider. Jewelry designer, socialite, and collector Jamini Ahluwalia makes sense of the scene. (She sells her jewelry from her fabulous home and at daughter Maithili’s store, Bunaglow 8. See “Stylesetter.”) She knows all the important gallerists and will also take visitors to the art auction house Osian’s (G2B Nariman Bhavan Nariman Point; and Jehangir Art Gallery (161 Mahatma Gandhi Rd.), a tremendous public space displaying changing exhibitions by a wide variety of local talent. Ahluwalia is available to those traveling with Our Personal Guest (212-319-1354; or she can be booked by contacting her at 91-98/2021-9201 or