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A Star Chef in Durham

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Thirteen years after chef Andrea Reusing debuted Lantern, her critically acclaimed restaurant in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, she’s venturing 30 miles northeast to run the Durham Restaurant, located in the namesake city’s new Durham Hotel. Both open in July.

It’s not that Reusing had never entertained other restaurant offers. It’s just that she never felt the timing was right. “The infrastructure for local food is finally able to support the volume I need,” she says. For the menu, Reusing was inspired by a list of American foods in Mark Twain’s A Tramp Abroad that the author pined for while touring Europe in the 1870s, from sheepshead and croakers to such American fruits as strawberries and peaches. Some Twain ingredients appear in dishes such as baked crab soufflé and cornbread. The rooftop bar serves uncommon kinds of fish, like Twain’s sheepshead.

At 315 E. Chapel Hill St.; 919-247-8683; thedurham.com.

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