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My best meal recently was at Yeni Lokanta-Bar, in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu neighborhood. The food: tradition-based “new Turkish”— crisp-cooked spicy sausage with borlotti bean puree; kadajifi, wrapped custard fritters with smoked-buffalo-milk ice cream and honey (pictured).

At Kumbaracı Yokuşu 66; 90-21/2292-2550.


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