Restaurant to Watch

La Petite Maison, Cucuron-en-Provence

La Petite Maison, which opened last June, is making its mark in the Lubéron town of Cucuron-en-Provence. Its proprietors are the same people who own Burgundy's reputable Château de Bagnols, and its chef, Michel Mehdi, was cooking the classics at L'Auberge de la Tour in La Tour d'Aigues. Mehdi is trying to be more inventive here and the verdict is that some of those dishes—such as fruits and vegetables with shavings of Parmesan—are shaky. But traditional fare such as his rich and silky daube de boeuf à la Provençale is perfect. Locals think it's just a matter of time before he finds his groove completely. $80. $ Place de l'Etang; 33-4-90-77-18-60; fax 33-4-90-77-18-61.

F.Y.I.: While you're in the town of Cucuron, take home a bottle or two of the voluptuous, fruity Dauphin olive oil used by local Michelin-starred chefs Reine Sammut and Edouard Loubet. $12 per liter. Moulin à Huile; 33-4-90-77-26-17.

$ Establishment accepts no charge/credit cards or accepts cards other than the American Express Card.