Aspen in winter

Following the crowd in Aspen isn't hard—it's at The Little Nell, the Caribou Club, and Mezzaluna. But what do you do when you don't want to do the scene?

SKI SMARTS On Ajax, as it's known, you'll find serious skiers at Walsh's, the mountain's toughest double-black run. If you ask city councilman Tim Semrau, he'll say the best powder is at Cone Dump. For a Zenlike trip, Silver Bell is a smooth blue run with a view of every peak for miles.

EATING OUT Benedicts, a tiny new lunch spot right on top of Ajax (lunch, $80; 970-429-6990) has the buzz, but Bonnie's has the best ahi tuna sandwich on the mountain (970-925-4218). The new Genre Bistro is terrific, too, for warm beet salad, buffalo tenderloin, and bartender Billy Zuehlke's mojitos (dinner, $80; 970-925-1260). After a night with Billy, you'll need a Blended Black & White, a frozen coffee with white and dark chocolate, from Ink! Coffee ($4.75; 520 East Durant Avenue).

SHOPPING When you've done Dior, head to Distractions (465 East Hopkins Avenue) for Paul Smith, Balenciaga, Proenza Schouler, and furrier J. Mendel right next door. Imelda's (228 South Mill Street) is the new—and best—place for shoes from Jimmy Choo, Tod's, Hogans, and Bruno Frisoni.

LOCAL SCOOP Aspen has no shortage of art—Baldwin Gallery (209 South Galena Street) shows Ross Bleckner and James Turrell; Anderson Ranch, just outside town (970-923-3181), is an artists' colony with fantastic exhibits. Aspenites also swear by the Saturday farmer's market (on Hopkins Avenue), full of up-and-coming artists, craftsmen, and antiques dealers (don't miss the jewelry)—and, just as important, sorbet and kettle corn.