Paris's Hot New Neighborhood: Pigalle

A guide to the ninth arrondissment’s South Pigalle.

On the small 9th arrondissement streets below Avenue Trudaine and the Sacré-Coeur, the Paris neighborhood of South Pigalle—or SoPi—has emerged recently as a stylish, slightly bohemian alternative to the Marais. With a refreshingly local vibe (no brand-name stores), it mixes small design shops, casual restaurants, an outstanding bakery, and an artiste-designed hotel whose garden restaurant is a Paris rarity. And its local market—on Rue des Martyrs, just north of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette—draws particularly young and sophisticated families, especially on Sunday mornings, when the street is closed to cars and the food shops and stands feel like a country fair.

Hotel Amour

Hotelier Thierry Costes, restaurateur Emmanuel Delavenne, and artist and nightclub owner André Saraiva revived this down-on-its-heels hotel in 2006, and it now attracts a hip, youthful clientele. (Lou Doillon, Jane Birkin’s model-actress daughter, is reportedly a regular.) The 20 quirky rooms—four of them designed by French artists—include two new duplexes, and the patioed ground-floor restaurant serves Franco-American basics. Amenities are a bit hit or miss: Kiehl’s bathroom products and an iPod dock in most rooms, but no minibar or TV. From $205. At 8 Rue de Navarin;

Arnaud Delmontel

First prize in Paris’s 2007 Grand Prix de la Baguette went to Arnaud Delmontel, whose confections are absolutely de rigueur (especially the grapefruit, pear, and pistachio tart, and the royal chocolate cake). A line forms at lunch for the baguettes stuffed with, say, coppa, chèvre, and olive oil, or chicken and crudités. At 39 Rue des Martyrs;

Rose Bakery

South African Rose Carrarini has won Paris over with the British-style scones, cakes, and granola at her eight-year-old bakery, café, and food shop. (To avoid a wait, arrive by 11 a.m. on weekdays, 10 a.m. on the weekend.) Almost everything can be packed to go, including the organic vegetable tarts, salads, soups, and hard-to-find stuff from the UK, like Stilton cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy. Lunch, $35. At 46 Rue des Martyrs; 33-1/42-82-12-80.


Patricia Teboul and her daughter Annabelle describe their boutique’s aesthetic as “bobo chic”—local parlance for “sleek bohemian.” For spring, it’s young, mostly French women’s labels: simple dresses and separates in colorful silk and cotton prints by Circus & Co., and faded romance-meets-rock cardigans, slip dresses, and printed shorts from Swildens. The Danish brand Day Birger et Mikkelsen adds a touch of gypsy with harem pants, beaded cotton jackets, and lace-inset blouses. At 36 Rue des Martyrs; 33-1/48-78-65-48.


An eclectic three-year-old shop that mixes mod kids’ toys, clothing, accessories, and vintage design objects (like a pair of redone ’70s Grundig Audiorama speakers). There are also cotton slip dresses by the French label Himpan and great slouchy leather bags from the Parisian company Velvetine. At 9 Rue Clauzel;

3 par 5

There are clothes and accessories here, but the limited-edition designs from up-and-coming French artisans make this six-year-old spot really special. Of note are the modernist silver and black metal mobiles by Julie Oger, and lamps covered with Japanese fabrics and serigraphy by Céline Saby. At 25 Rue des Martyrs;

La Cabine

Florence Joly just added her own designs—a girl’s collection called Made in June—to the casual women’s and children’s clothing at her 16-month-old boutique. Signature pieces include book bags, lunch boxes, and pencil cases by Bakker: Made With Love, and cotton tops and bottoms in old-time stripes by Hartford (both are French brands). There are also jeans from the Swedish (and of-the-moment) company Cheap Monday. At 20 Rue Milton; 33-6/60-22-17-73.


Lawrence Aboucaya opened her juice bar and hub for raw and vegetarian food and cookware in 2003, but it only became a must-book spot two years ago when she began serving her salads, soups, etc., at sit-down lunch. The restaurant—which caters to some of the city’s top spas—still sells kitchen gear and ingredients and runs culinary classes, too. Lunch, $25. At 7 Rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette;

Les Cakes de Bertrand

Didier Bertrand opened his tea salon–cum–bakery in 2001, but when a collection of handbags he designed—using vintage French graphics—became Parisian must-haves in 2007, he turned it into a store. Now he carries those plus items like notebooks and army surplus jackets printed with the same signature images, all reproduced on a press behind the shop. At 7 Rue Bourdaloue;

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