La Spa Ducasse

L'Andana, Alain Ducasse's magnificent 33-room country palazzo hotel in the Maremma region of Italy (a two-hour drive from Florence), has a divine new spa. Done in a Deco-inspired black and white, the four treatment rooms (run by the E'Spa company) occupy the ground floor of what was once a hunting lodge for the Duke of Tuscany. The hotel also built an indoor pool—there's a gorgeous outdoor one right behind the lodge, decorated with blown-up black-and-white photographs depicting mod young Italians romping through sixties Rome like characters in an Antonioni film. They're a molto chic touch, the emblem of what it means to be pampered Italian-style. A somber house of meditation this is not: The treatments, such as the peppermint massage and the sea-salt scrub, aren't a revelation; rather, they are one more stop on L'Andana's road to la dolce vita. The real joys here are lounging on a terrace and sitting under the umbrella pines with a dish of silken-soy-milk panna cotta from the superb spa menu. It's the handiwork of the talented young pastry chef Gallileo Reposo. From $570 to $1,580; treatments, $45–$450; 39-05/6494-4800;