The Caribbean: Bermuda

Trying something new

Update: Cuisine on Bermuda: Who Knew?
England's oldest existing colony is trying a few new things, starting with its food. Two island favorites are pushing (but respecting) the boundaries of traditional Bermuda cuisine: The Waterlot Inn serves gravlax with a pineapple-ginger salsa and lemon-coconut cream, as well as seared scallops with white-corn risotto (dinner, $140; on Middle Road; 441-239-6967). The Seahorse Grill at Elbow Beach, under the direction of Scott Connor, uses classic grilled halibut in an earthy truffle-and-beet salad, pairs poached lobster with mango escabeche, and fills summer rolls with shark hash ( dinner, $120; 60 South Shore Road; 441-236-3535). Even the island's more casual tables are experimenting. A local favorite, Rustico serves dishes such as tempura-fried soft-shell crab and rockfish with Black Seal ginger sauce in addition to its terrific thin-crust pizzas (dinner, $80; 8 North Shore Road; 441-295-5212). To match the improvements in its dining rooms, Bermuda has also started sprucing up its hotels. The Pink Beach Club & Cottages has redone all of its 94 suites with fourposter beds, Oriental carpets, and marble bathrooms (rooms, $430-$1,700; At 116 South Shore Road; 800-355-6161). And the Fairmont Southampton ( 101 South Shore Road; 441-238-8000) has added the sprawling new Willow Stream spa, which offers Vichy treatments ($89-$129), a facial designed for sun-damaged skin ($179), and a men's beard treatment ($119). Book the spa early—it often fills up a week in advance.

—Gisela Williams

Insider Tips: Ron Pompei, Bermuda
Ron Pompei, the designer in charge of redoing Bermuda's Lantana resort, spills a few local secrets.

BOOK suite 20 at the Waterloo House (800-468-4100).

EXPLORE Fort St. Catherine or any of the dozens of forts around the island's perimeter.

GET TO KNOW Bryan Darby, who gives great tours of the Dockyard (441-236-2658).

Hotel rates range from the lowest-priced double to the highest-priced suite in high season. In most cases VAT is not included. Meal prices are for a three-course dinner for two, excluding beverage and gratuity.

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