The country may have taken a tourism hit since the Westgate mall terror attack, but there’s still only one Masai Mara. Getting off the beaten path—but in reach of the national reserve—is one way to navigate the new dynamic. In which case, stay at Richard’s River Camp, in Mara North Conservancy, a 25-minute drive from the park boundary. Owned by African superguide Richard Roberts and Elizabeth Fusco, the camp, previously available only to groups, is now open to individuals. It has been completely redesigned, with six elegant canvas tents (plus one configured for families, with two tents, two bathrooms and an adjoining sitting room) decorated with Indian block-print interiors and Moroccan silver-fringed throws. Past trees with wrought-iron hanging baskets designed for curling up in deep cushions, trim lawns lead down to river pools with smooth black rocks; hippo, zebra, lion and giraffe all come to drink here. Kenya right now isn’t for everyone, but for those who aren’t staying away, Richard’s River Camp is an understated place to know about. Tents start at $715 a person per night; 254-733/700-015; richardscamp.com.