From the Oct 2004 Issue

Black Book

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Florence

Bespoke tailors, perfect panini, and Tuscan gardens Read More

Milan

Fashion, blues and new spas Read More

Naples

Pizza, caffè shakerato and edgy art Read More

Beyond Florence

Tuscany Read More

Black Book: Beyond Milan

The Lakes district and three day trips Read More

Beyond Naples

The Amalfi Coast, Procida and Sorrento Read More

Beyond Rome

Ponza and the countryside Read More

Beyond Venice

Padua and the Veneto's northeast Read More

Rome

Best guides, top hotels, and the Cinecitta Read More

Venice

Gelato, handmade paper and a private palazzo Read More

All That Glitters

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Cameo Appearance

The ancient art of the cameo is newly fashionable, thanks in part to a dynasty of Italian carvers and designers on the outskirts of Naples. Read More

By Design

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Made in Milan—This Year

No matter what the label appears on, it's a guarantee of style. Deyan Sudjic examines sofas, chandeliers, fountain pens—and how the city became the capital of design. Read More

Culture Watch

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Clash of the Titans

Who was the greater Baroque artist, Bernini or Borromini? The question remains very much alive in Rome's Piazza Navona. Read More

Dress Code

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Color Me Pucci

When Emilio Pucci set pattern to print, he called on memories of waves crashing along the shore at Capri and brightly colored flags flying at the Palio. Is it any wonder, asks Josh Patner, his signature fashions now speak Italian ... Read More

Food

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Cucina Italiana Now

Where lies the future of Italian gastronomy? Pavia Rosati tracks the debate between old and new, tradition and innovation, at restaurants throughout the country. Read More

Travel

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Syracuse: The Cognoscenti's Guide

This ancient port in Sicily's deep south has always been a little rough around the edges—the perfect combination of refined and unmistakably real. Read More

On the Tuscan Riviera

She spent the summers of her childhood cruising these waters. Now Priscilla Rattazzi returns for a family vacation, Agnelli-style. Read More

Amalfi's Next Wave

A new generation of hoteliers is making a difference. Read More

Sport

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Skiing Cortina

One of Europe's most fabled resorts, Cortina d'Ampezzo, 80 miles from Venice, is not on the radar of most American skiers. Chiara Ferragamo on why it should be. Read More

Wine & Spirits

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The Grape Crusaders

Sitting down to a nice Chianti once meant drinking cheap wine from a wicker bottle. A small group of stylish Italian vintners put the past to rest and gave Chianti the respect—and look—it deserves. Read More

You Tell Us

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Bling-Bling?

Readers Recommend: Hotels

Sounds of Music

The One & Only

Readers Recommend: Restaurants

Russian Delight

Favorite Places

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