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The Food Hall Revolution

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© Anthony LaSala

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Anthony Bourdain’s Street-Food Market, New York

“We are not interested in the usual suspects,” says Anthony Bourdain (pictured here) of his unnamed but upcoming global food hall. “We want you to be able to enjoy expertly sliced Iberico ham and some Cava or Kuching-style laksa [soup], Chinese lamb noodles, Vietnamese pho or a decent barbecue brisket all in one place—and, most importantly, made by the very best people in each specialized area.” Based on the model of Singaporean hawker centers, which provide a well-edited selection of master vendors at affordable prices, Bourdain’s center will host 40 to 50 single-concept stalls selling one to two specialties. The market, which will mix big-name chefs with rising stars from around the world, will be divided into three components: an Asian food hall inspired by Singapore and Malaysia, where each of the chefs will present a family dish passed down from generations; a selection of domestic and international chefs offering gourmet street food, including options like tostadas from La Guerrerense, a cart in Ensenada, Mexico, and barbecue from Daniel Delaney of Brooklyn’s BrisketTown; and a “geographic spotlight” section showcasing a different city, country or region every three to four months. Staying true to the hall’s more democratic inspirations, communal seating will be available and all food will be priced from $5 to $25. The space is designed to be “authentic and theatrical but not Disney-like,” explains Bourdain’s business partner Stephen Werthen. The pair has yet to announce when and where the hall will open.

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