La Boquería Market: Bar Pinotxo and El Quim de la Boquería
Barcelona

One of the world’s greatest food markets, La Boquería, is just off Barcelona’s famous pedestrian street, La Rambla. Grab a bar stool or two when they become vacant—patience!—at either (or preferably both) of the two best market bars, the 14-seat Pinotxo or the 18-seat Quim, and have a multicourse feast washed down with local cava. Pinotxo cook Jordi Asín whips up a mean mongetes amb sepia (small white beans with baby squid and balsamic vinegar); try his berberechos (steamed cockles) and grilled sardines as well, or any dish he recommends from his market-fresh seasonal repertoire. At El Quim de la Boquería, owner Quim Marquéz Durán—he’s the maestro with the earring manning the stove—serves up deep-fried alcachofas (artichoke hearts with aioli), plancha-grilled razor clams, fresh grilled green asparagus, paired with cava rosat, or rosé cava. Both Pinotxo and Quim remain memorable long after the espuma (foam) of Barcelona’s vanguardia cuisine has dissipated. Bar Pinotxo, stall 466-467; El Quim de la Boqueria, stall 584-606, La Boquería, 91 La Rambla, Barcelona; 34-933/182-584.

Where to Stay: Condes de Barcelona (rooms, from $475; 73-75 Passeig de Gracia; 34-934/450-000) is in the heart of the Eixample, Barcelona’s Madison Avenue; near the port and the lower Rambla is the charming Duquesa de Cardona (rooms, from $300; 12 Paseo Colón; 34-932/689-090).