Pick-Me-Ups

Geoffrey Sokol

Everyone claims to have the ultimate recipe for corn on the cob. Here is my humble take on the summer classic: Start with a great ear of corn. I get mine from Paley’s Market in Sharon, Connecticut (860-364-0674), where Charlie Paley handpicks them himself twice a day. Cut the top off and remove about two layers of husk so the kernels are just visible through the inner layer; do not remove the silk. Soak the corn overnight—husk included—in whole milk plus a handful of coarse salt. To cook, bring the milk to a high boil, turn off the heat, and cover the pot for about ten minutes. After draining, peel the husk back and tie it like a shoelace at the bottom—that becomes the holder for this side. The right garnish is also essential: Use sweet butter and sprinkle on some of Tony Chachere’s Creole seasoning ($1.75 for eight ounces; tonychacheres.com). Finish with any of the silver holders at right.