New Chicago Restaurants: Cellar Door Provisions

© Anna Knott

In a world-class restaurant town known for its sophisticated gluttony, Cellar Door Provisions stands out for its simple, seasonal slow food in Logan Square.

When Cellar Door Provisions opened on the outskirts of Chicago’s hip Logan Square neighborhood last year, the restaurant’s technicolor creations showcasing local farmers’ harvests—think tomato consommé with clear chilled broth, pickled cucumbers, halved cherry tomatoes, and a microgreens garnish—shook things up in the city better known for Burt’s Place deep-dish pizza and Au Cheval double-patty burgers. “When you treat ingredients with a light touch, you get folks jumping for joy over a vegetable, of all things,” says Tony Bezsylko, one of CDP’s co-owners, chefs, and bakers. Bezsylko and his business partners, Ethan Pikas and Justin Behlke, got their start in Chicago’s underground dining scene, cooking ticketed tasting-menu dinners 
at their houses, which led to the opening of a brick-and- mortar spot. Today the counter-service restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch and features a weekly rotating menu with creative dishes, such as an umami sesame butter, honey, and greens tartine (essentially the most sophisticated peanut butter and jelly ever). “Every week, we say stuff like ‘This is the best beet dish we’ve ever done,’ and then the next week, we just say it again,” Bezsylko says. “Things keep getting better.” At 3025 W. Diversey Ave.; 773-697-8337; cellardoorprovisions.com.