Variations on a Theme

François Dischinger

The suit—in all its incarnations—is ready for its close-up.


The Pinstripe

Read between the lines: This one’s a classic with a twist. Ralph Lauren Purple Label notch-lapel Drake suit ($5,000), Keaton shirt ($400), and tie ($165). Ermenegildo Zegna pocket square ($85). Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar watch with alligator strap ($18,500).

The Suit in Three Parts

The uniform of dandies and aristocrats updated for modern times. Tom Ford peak-lapel Buckingham wool suit ($4,690), Prince of Wales–checked shirt ($560), velvet bow tie ($190), and pocket square ($130). Boucheron Ronde rose-gold watch with crocodile strap ($15,000).

Double-Breasted

A powerful statement on tailored cool. Martini, anyone? Brioni chalk-striped, double-breasted wool suit ($6,100) and cotton and linen shirt ($600) with Paul Stuart gloves ($250)

The Windowpane

For a man with very definite taste. (It was a favorite of the Duke of Windsor’s.) Canali wool suit ($1,975) and silk tie ($120). Kiton shirt ($1,175). Gianfranco Ferré pocket square ($110). Giorgio Armani Cervo briefcase ($1,900). Maurice Lacroix Pontos Décentrique GMT limited-edition watch ($8,350).

The Bold Choice

It takes a strong man to wear a pattern head-to-toe. Happily, we know a few. Gianfranco Ferré three-piece wool suit ($4,500) and cashmere turtleneck ($1,200) with Cartier Ballon Bleu watch ($18,600)

The Rope Shoulder

A simple detail in the Neapolitan tradition. Bottega Veneta wool suit ($3,000) and wool knit vest ($710). Ermenegildo Zegna cotton shirt ($325) and linen pocket square ($85). Polo Ralph Lauren bow tie ($70).

The Italian Job

Single-breasted suit worn with scarf chicly knotted. Vespa not included. Ermenegildo Zegna pinstriped suit ($2,545). Ralph Lauren Purple Label Clayton shirt ($395). Gucci silk scarf ($1,700). Kiton belt ($1,525). Tom Ford glasses ($375). Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine watch ($19,000).

The Classic

Single-breasted. Navy. Perfect. Hermès two-button wool suit ($4,000), cashmere V-neck sweater ($1,375), cotton shirt ($325), and Liverpool tie ($170). Gucci feather lapel pin ($430). Audemars Piguet Millenary watch ($22,400).