Men’s Fashion Forecast: Pitti Uomo

YOUNGJUN KOO

Five buyers spring predictions straight from the trade show in Florence.

Twice a year, menswear editors, retail buyers and enthusiasts descend on Florence for the men’s fashion trade show Pitti Uomo. Not since Gianni Agnelli dined alone has so much sartorial splendor been gathered in one place. More than 1,000 brands come to Pitti Uomo to show new merchandise, and for buyers it’s a chance to add smaller, more artisanal labels to their retail repertoire. “It’s about finding the special items that will make us stand out from the rest,” says Bill Cournoyer, VP, men’s clothing and furnishings at Bergdorf Goodman.

While the show is known for its democratic approach­ to showcasing less-well-known brands, big Italian names like Ermenegildo Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli have caught on, and even American designers like Jack Spade and Levi’s have set up shop recently.

Fresh off another round of fashion shows, we asked five buyers what they saw “last season” at Pitti Uomo for this season’s spring collections.