July 02, 2012
Photo by Tasha Green
Last week the men’s shows in Milan showcased the collections for spring 2013. The sweltering July temperatures ensured that buyers and editors were in the mood for refreshing summer fashion. Some houses played it safe, presenting designs that exemplified the company in the most familiar of ways, while others pushed the envelope, imposing a level of futurism that menswear may never fully accept. Then there were those—like the five selected below—that hit it just right, balancing essential brand elements with forward-thinking innovation.
Etro: The most inspired collection thematically, referencing India and the Middle East—complete with turbans, mandarin collars and harem pants.
Bottega Veneta: Beautiful styles conjuring up images of the Southwest, with moccasins and ’60s-style suede tunics. Big, beautiful bags—what Bottega does best—also made their way down the runway.
Gucci (pictured): We know that Gucci’s Frida Giannini loves a ’70s reference, but this collection seemed a more refined riff on that theme, including elegant silk prints and perfectly proportioned jackets.
Missoni: The house of Missoni offered more Eastern-inspired looks: Moroccan feeling pieces played more with tonal hues than a mishmash of colors. The result was both fresh and soothing.
Burberry: The general rule of thumb is that three times makes a trend, so with metallics dominating the runway at Versace, Roberto Cavalli and Burberry, we knew they were on to something. Though quite a bit of shine came down Christopher Bailey’s runway, he was also clever enough to hide the glitter behind the lapel of a classic trench for a more wearable version of the trend.
June 28, 2012
Photo by David Regen / Courtesy Gladstone Gallery, New York and Brussels, and Blum & Poe, Los Angeles
Artistic innovation often follows in the wake of war, borne of both necessity and an urgent desire to record a changed landscape. In late-1960s Japan, this tendency gave rise to the Mono-ha phenomenon (“The School of Things”), which pulled away from a more traditional investment in objects, permanence and symbolism and moved toward ideas of perception and encounters, blurring the definitions of reality.
“Requiem for the Sun: The Art of Mono-ha”—a monochromatic show of suspension and contingency done in grainy photographs, works on paper and sculptures built out of juxtapositions—opened last Thursday at Gladstone Gallery (through August 3; 530 W. 21st St.; 212-206-7606; gladstonegallery.com), in collaboration with Blum & Poe in Los Angeles. The disconcerting, eerily-lit land images of Koji Enokura call to mind the recent meltdown at Fukushima, and the smooth stones in pieces by Nobuo Sekine (pictured above) resonate with tension.
Two more monochromatic and somewhat ethereal shows also opened last Thursday: “More and Different Flags” at Marlborough Gallery in Chelsea (through July 27; 545 W. 25th St.; 212-463-8634; marlboroughgallery.com) and “Moving Spirits: François Morellet & Gerhard von Graevenitz” at Sperone Westwater (through July 27; 257 Bowery; 212-999-7337; speronewestwater.com).
The title of “More and Different Flags” is borrowed from a poem by Agnes Martin called “The Thinking Reed.” The show displays the work of 11 artists who “share a loose affinity with her approach” (Martin dealt in deeply subtle, densely deployed horizontal and vertical lines) but whose investment in lines and patterns is used to remarkably different ends. Look for Mexican artist Gabriel Dawe’s large-scale, floor-to-ceiling installation of rainbows of thread, and the smaller, layered infinitely subtle works of former diamond expert Yoshiaki Mochizuki.
In “Moving Spirits,” the hypnotic ’50s and ’60s Light-Kinetic works of friends Morellet and von Graevenitz are at once abstract and highly physical—to the point that they could almost be taken as images of the materials from which they are cut or made. The shows consist of individual mesmeric objects. But taken as a whole, pattern upon pattern begins to echo and the intended depth is lost. As the ending line of Martin’s poem says, “There are two endless directions. In and out.”
June 28, 2012
Courtesy One&Only Cape Town
One&Only Cape Town, the South African luxury resort known for its stunning views of Table Mountain and eye-catching art installations, is launching a series of half- and full-day art tours for guests, just in time for Cape Town’s 2014 designation as World Design Capital.
It’s not One&Only’s first foray into art. Design guru Adam Tihany did the hotel’s interiors and was part of a group that commissioned South African artists to create installations for the resort. The group also launched a branch of the Goodman Gallery—a contemporary art gallery with spaces in Cape Town and Johannesburg—on the mezzanine level of the hotel.
One&Only is offering two curated options for tours. The first is the Galleries Art Tour, featuring an art expert who guides guests through Cape Town’s most inspiring art galleries, including the Irma Stern Museum, Everard Read’s waterfront art space and the innovative What if the World Gallery, named one of the “Top 50 Emerging Galleries from Around the World” by Contemporary Magazine in 2007.
The second offering is the Contemporary Art Tour, which begins at The Foundry, in the once run-down suburb of Woodstock. Today the area is reinvented, and guests can chat with the metalworkers, sculptors and jewelers who craft there, as well as explore myriad shops and studios in the neighborhood. After an afternoon of meet-and-greets with artists, the final stop is in the Kalk Bay artist’s district, where tour-goers can immerse themselves in Cape Town’s thriving hub of color and creativity. Half-day tours from $385; full-day tours from $545; At Dock Road, Victoria & Albert Waterfront; 27-21/431-5888; oneandonlyresorts.com.
June 28, 2012
There is no shortage of fabulous food in the Hamptons, and Dan’s Taste of Two Forks—held July 14 in Bridgehampton—proves just that. In its second year, the culinary extravaganza once again highlights fare from the North and South forks of Long Island, celebrating everything from knock-out seafood to scrumptious Italian delicacies. One of the summer’s hottest tickets (last year’s event sold out), the gathering will be hosted by renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and will include restaurants such as B. Smith in Sag Harbor, Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton, Nobu at Capri in Southampton and Greenport’s The Frisky Oyster. All in all it represents what the Hamptons does best: gather people for food and drink in a gorgeous setting to celebrate summer and everything that comes with it. “The biggest satisfaction for a chef and restaurateur is to see that look in people’s eyes after they tasted your dish,” says Vittorio Assaf, owner of Serafina East Hampton. “Like you gave them a big gift, like you made them a little happier. During these events many people taste our food, and that makes for a lot of happy eyes!” VIP admission with Champagne reception and toast (6:30 p.m.–7:30 p.m.), $225; general admission (7:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m.), $150. Sayre Park, 154 Snake Hollow Rd., Bridgehampton; 631-227-0188; tasteoftwoforks.com.
June 28, 2012
Courtesy Orlebar Brown
There are many ways to get into the Olympic spirit: crossing the pond to see the London games live (they start July 27); setting the DVR to catch every second of synchronized swimming, equestrian dressage and rhythmic gymnastics; or cheering on an adopted soccer team at a local watering hole (“Goooaaal!”).
But new to the list is donning the super-stylish Athlete Collection swim trunks by Orlebar Brown. Digitally printed in the UK and made of a high-tech, quick-drying Belgian fabric called polyamide, the new trim-fit swimsuits ($275 each) celebrate sport with crisp graphic illustrations of five different Olympic events: diving, volleyball, gymnastics, running and javelin. French-born, London-based illustrator Malika Favre created the imagery especially for the brand’s founder, Adam Brown, who says he “looked to the strong, heroic quality of the graphics and photography used by the Russian Constructivists of the 1920s” when working with the artist. “Lots of sportsmen have been photographed wearing OB shorts, and Matthew Pinsent, the four-time Olympic gold medal rower for the UK, is a regular customer,” Brown continues. “But really, I’m always thrilled when anyone wears OBs—Olympian or otherwise.”
This year’s Olympiad coincides with Orlebar Brown’s fifth anniversary, and the Athlete Collection is just one of the ways the brand has commemorated the occasion. There are also design collaborations with style gurus Simon Doonan and Nick Wooster and trunks printed with beachy vintage photos from the Getty Images Collection, including soigne scenes shot by Slim Aarons. orlebarbrown.com.
June 26, 2012
Photo courtesy Martha Stewart CraftStudio
If campiness is the new elegance, the just-launched Martha Stewart CraftStudio app is out to spread the word. Debuted last week, the handiwork of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia and production studio Happy is a workshop for cards and pictures that has the potential to reinvigorate the often dull e-mails sent to organize parties that are anything but. If summer is the time for laid-back, sunny indulgence with brightly colored cocktails, why send an invitation for an evening of croquet in Newport without stamping it with beautiful borders? Or send a postcard from Cappadocia without the added thrill of hi-resolution glitter? Best of all, CraftStudio gives us a chance to use our hands without getting hole-punched bits of paper in the carpet. $4.99, free for a limited time. Available for download at the App Store.
June 25, 2012
Photo by Bruce Weber
For a small town tucked away in Suffolk County, New York, Bellport has a big fan in preeminent fashion photographer Bruce Weber. And the Bellport-Brookhaven Historical Society—whose exhibit “A Bellport Tale: Photographs by Bruce Weber” remains on display through Labor Day—is happy to support him in return. (The society has hosted other shows, on the likes of Ingrid Bergman, whose daughter Isabella Rossellini is a Bellport resident.)
Weber, who began paying visits to the village in the late 1970s, became a resident in the early 1980s. Continuously drawn to the town’s scenery and historic architecture, he ultimately shot several of his most iconic images there during the formative years of his career.
Photo by Bruce Weber
“A Bellport Tale” presents 33 photographs from a 1982 fashion shoot commissioned by British Vogue called “Under Western Eyes.” (Grace Coddington, current creative director of American Vogue, styled it.) The shoot, inspired by Edward Weston—a pioneering photographer known as much for his rocky personal life and numerous affairs as for his work—included Bellport locals as well as models, giving it an authentic, slightly unpredictable feel.
Photo by Bruce Weber
“A big part of this story was finding all these people with different personalities and putting them in photographs together without knowing what was going to happen next,” says Weber. On view Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays through Labor Day; 12 Bell St.; 631-776-7640; bbhsmuseum.org.
June 21, 2012
The town of Montauk—perched on the southeastern tip of Long Island in the Hamptons—has seen a string of casually chic hotels over the last few years. This summer it welcomes The Montauk Beach House, the brainchild of owners Chris Jones and Larry Siedlick, whose hotel and private beach club underwent a $7 million renovation before its debut this month.
The 33 airy guest rooms are steeped in natural light, luxe bedding and an array of amenities. Find Belgian linen drapes, whitewashed oak floors and headboards made from 14-foot-wide reclaimed barn wood in the Whitewater Lofts. Moonlight Suites look out over two swimming pools and have lofty 14-foot ceilings, claw-foot tubs and cast iron beds, and each Whitewater Garden room opens to a 200-square-foot private outdoor garden.
“When guests come to our house, we want them to experience Montauk with a sense of style and surprising delights,” says Jones. “We’re a rather splendid place to stay the night. We’re also an elegant way to spend the day and evening.”
No. 50, the hotel’s private beach and pool club, adds another layer to the experience here (seasonal memberships, $1,100; email@example.com ). Members enjoy comforts such as 120 cabana beds, two pools, a location steps from the beach and a pop-up boutique of women’s wear label Minnie Rose. It also offers access to special services and lineups of curated events that include everything from fashion shows to music performances. But the best part? The Beach House is open through November 1, so the fun needn’t stop after Labor Day. Rooms, from $300; 55 S. Elmwood Ave.; 631-668-2112; thembh.com.
June 21, 2012
Courtesy Peter Island Resort & Spa
Proving that a Fourth of July celebration can be done delightfully—and deliciously—on non-American soil, Peter Island Resort & Spa hosts its third annual BBQ & Bubbles to mark the holiday. The highlight of the lively beach barbecue is a cook-off between Costa Rican–born guest chef Govind Armstrong (of 8 oz. Burger Bar in Miami and Seattle and Post & Beam in Los Angeles) and the culinary team of Peter Island.
Located on Peter Island, an 1,800-acre private isle in the British Virgin Islands, the resort offers three villas and 52 rooms and suites, and is marked by personalized attention from the top down and swaths of perfect sand and idyllic ocean waters. The barbecue, held on Deadman’s Bay Beach, will treat travelers to an enviable menu (including Anegada lobster, certified Angus beef and traditional and Caribbean-influenced side dishes), Veuve Clicquot Champagne and live music ($80 per person; $30 additional for Champagne). Adding to the cook-off fun, guests will choose the ultimate winner by voting for their favorites.
For those craving even more tasty reasons to stay and celebrate on Peter Island, the Culinary Package (July 3–7; from $1,830) includes access to more food-geared events, including a farm tour at Paraquite Bay on Tortola and a wine dinner featuring a menu by Armstrong. BBQ & Bubbles, July 4; 284-495-2000; peterisland.com.
June 21, 2012
Courtesy The Dolder Grand
Il Tavolo, Zurich’s first-ever food festival, features a bit of the Mediterranean as well as Swiss haute cuisine as it takes over the city June 27 to July 1. Numerous five-star hotels and restaurants will participate, offering special menus and delicacies served (mostly) along the lovely Limmat River. Events include an opening night party at the Park Hyatt Zurich (June 27), a gala celebration in the courtyard of the National Museum Zurich (June 30) and a communal family breakfast (July 1). On June 29, executive chef Gion Fetz of The Dolder Grand hotel (Kurhausstrasse 65; 41-44/456-6000; thedoldergrand.com) will cook a gourmet lunch with a group of lucky children ($83; proceeds benefit local cause Pro Juventute Switzerland). All in all it promises to be a feast of not only delicious food but community togetherness as well. “The basic idea behind this summer culinary treat is a simple one: We want to show how much Zurich offers on the culinary front,” says Doris Fiala of Il Tavolo. “The festival’s main aim, though, is to bring people together at its long table to enjoy the specialties of its guest chefs and local kitchen stars alike. We are sure that it will be a truly unique experience.” June 27–July 1; il-tavolo.ch.