In Search of Thailand's Best Spa Resorts
© Herbert Ympa
Thailand is known for having some of the best spas in the world. Are they all they're cracked up to be?
Ayurveda, acupuncture, shiatsu, reflexology, yoga. Asian techniques have permeated Western practices of well-being for decades, with new trends appearing in American spas every few years, the latest being the rise of Thai massage techniques, Chinese herbal treatments for detoxing and tai chi fitness classes. Yet not all of these methods have been imported in their purest form; we’ve interpreted them to fit our need for results-oriented solutions. Whereas Eastern philosophy is holistic—teaching us how to change our hectic lifestyle, release emotion and stress, heal ourselves mentally and physically—Western ideals are scientific and medical. “And with their beautiful surroundings, Asian spas have that ‘wow’ factor,” says Dr. Richard Carmona, the 17th surgeon general of the United States and now the CEO of Canyon Ranch Health and president of the iconic American spa’s institute in Tucson, Arizona. “What they do not have is the depth and breadth of services.”
With Thailand having carved out a reputation as one of Asia’s best wellness destinations, from grassroots to luxury, departures decided to investigate, spending a total of ten days visiting urban spas in Bangkok, then flying east and south to two very different resorts: one a truly Asian brand, Soneva Kiri by Six Senses, and the other Western with Eastern influences due to its locale, Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve.
Soneva Kiri by Six Senses
Say “Thailand beaches,” and the first island that comes to mind is Phuket, which is precisely why we headed for the lesser-known Koh Kood, a 50-square-mile island off the east coast offering the same white powder beaches and crystal clear waters without the crowds. Situated in Koh Chang Marine National Park in the Thai Gulf, Koh Kood features a small fishing village, some rubber tree plantations, two breathtaking waterfalls and Soneva Kiri by Six Senses, which opened in December 2009 with a year’s worth of growing pains due to construction problems and only recently has been ready for prime time.
The resort’s remote location makes getting there a high-end experience. The journey begins at New Bangkok International Airport (Suvarnabhumi), where Soneva Kiri has its own counter and representative to escort you to the first-class lounge while your customs documents are taken care of. After you’ve refreshed, you board an eight-seat Cessna Grand Caravan for the hour-long flight to Koh Maisie, the tiny island next to Koh Kood that provides the resort’s private airstrip. It’s then a quick five-minute boat ride to the main village-like complex with its ice cream stand, chocolate factory, art gallery, library, boutiques and dining areas, all designed in an ecofriendly, wood-and-bamboo, tented tree-house style. Your butler takes you via electric buggy, which is yours for the duration of your stay, to your villa, one of 29 located on the beach or cliffside with panoramic views.
A “no news, no shoes” policy means the hidden flatscreen TV in your villa’s master bedroom only plays DVDs and you’re encouraged to walk everywhere barefoot. But it also sets the tone for a relaxed, laid-back vibe that forces you to unwind and embrace Six Senses Spa’s SLOW LIFE concept: Sustainable, Local, Organic, Wholesome, Learning, Inspiring, Fun and Experiences. At Soneva Kiri, the largest of the Six Senses Spas, this philosophy is combined with Thai healing therapies using local ingredients to create herbal body scrubs and ointments for facials. The spa is the opposite of clinical, featuring open-air treatment rooms and exercise lofts with spectacular views and outdoor baths and showers.
