The Bliss Report
Whether you want to be pampered or pummeled, taken to another plane or simply made whole again, there's a spa in America for you, reports Shane Mitchell.
Some 2,000 years ago, after too many battles, Caesar's legions would be prescribed a trip to the local "spa." The word was an acronym for sanus per aquam, or health by water. This typically entailed a restorative soak in a natural hot spring followed by a cold plunge. (That's how Bath, England, originally a Roman outpost—got its name.) Over the ensuing centuries, the spa concept expanded: The French weighed in with thalassotherapy (seawater treatments), the Swiss specialized in botanical cures, and the Finns introduced the cedar sauna. Fast-forward to 21st-century America, where "spa" now means Hawaiian lomi lomi massage, Seminole sweat lodges, and every healing method in between. According to a 2002 survey by the International Spa Association, there are 9,632 spas scattered across all 50 states that generate nearly $11 billion a year. That's an awful lot of cucumber slices.
So how do you distinguish a fluff-and-buff job from a transcendent experience? Ask designer Sylvia Sepielli, the mastermind behind new spas at Boca Raton Resort & Club in South Florida and Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows on the island of Hawaii, and she responds scornfully: "For spas to be meaningful to their clients, they must have therapeutic value. Otherwise, it's just 101 ways of making hamburger." Barbara Close, owner of Naturopathica Holistic Health in East Hampton, New York, provides consulting services to other top spas, including Arizona's Mii Amo in Sedona, Miraval in Tucson, and Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain. She's adamant about what validates healing techniques. "No matter how fabulous the spa decor or products," Close says, "it all comes down to that interaction between the client and therapist. When all I hear is, 'Lie face down and I'll be right back,' I feel so unacknowledged." Close lectures bodywork professionals on nurturing touch and visualization skills. "At the least, they should get the crick out of your neck, and at best, put you in the alpha state."
That will not happen if your therapist is watching the clock and mindlessly performing a set routine. In the past decade bodyworkers have rubbed me raw, wrapped me like a mummy, and slathered me with rotting seaweed. I've been dunked into vile-smelling vats of mud, contorted my limbs into yoga-cum-pretzel positions, balanced my chakras with crystals, and most important, witnessed both charlatans and gifted healers at work.
Experimentation is often the method for determining which therapies (and therapists) actually impart benefits. That's why spas have become the ideal spot for sampling integrative health practices. The current trend in the well-being business is toward preventive maintenance, as spas focus on keeping people healthier—physically and mentally—longer. Sepielli says, "You can see where the spa world is going if you understand two things: We're not getting any less stressed, and we're not getting any younger."
On the following ten pages, we've attempted to define exactly what constitutes the great American spa—and which one is right for you.
BEST NEW HOTEL SPA
Kahala Mandarin Oriental
On the back side of Oahu's Diamond Head volcano, miles from the beach blanket bingo of Waikiki, the 364-room Kahala Mandarin Oriental resort is a modern steel-girder-and-glass tower with sweeping views of the Koolau Mountains and a swath of Pacific surf that curls around Koko Head. Built in 1964 by Conrad Hilton, the 10-story hotel has cropped up in episodes of Hawaii Five-O and Magnum, P.I., and served as a base for actors in the Jurassic Park movies. Both European and Hollywood royalty have lounged around its pool. A "wall of fame" features framed testimonials from celebrities like Elton John. Despite the klieg-light attention garnered by celebrity guests, the Kahala remains a stylishly subdued refuge in one of Honolulu's high-end residential districts. Overt Hawaiian references are limited to a traditional lei greeting at reception and historical photos of hula dancers in the corridors. No tacky tiki lounge, no torchlight luau, no "Tiny Bubbles" (except the bottled sort delivered by room service).
Kahala Mandarin Oriental occasionally puts on a show when guests require diversion. Atlantic bottlenose dolphins cruise through a natural saltwater lagoon (you can sign up to swim with them). Beach butlers in surfer shorts hand out icy towels and purified-mist spray bottles. At Hoku's restaurant, Hawaiian-born chef Wayne Hirabayashi flaunts his knowledge of the Pacific with whimsical pairings: A medley of quail egg, foie gras, and sea urchin is stacked atop savory lobster risotto; delicate herb-crusted onaga fish is garnished with baby corn shoots from an organic farm on Oahu's eastern shore.
The Kahala recently added a day spa, the Spa Suites, designed by U.K.-based Sue Harmsworth, whose ESPA firm has developed lavish spas at the Miami Mandarin Oriental and the Sandy Lane in Barbados. Five ground-floor guestrooms near the golf course have been converted into treatment rooms by Henricksen Design Associates of Venice, California. The uncluttered interiors of polished mahogany, rattan, and seagrass create, as the Kahala's literature claims, "a place of repose and delight," which Hawaiians call kahi nanea. ESPA consultant Tracey Chappell says, "Our vision for the suites was one of ultimate privacy. It was important that all unsightly equipment, from fridges to hot-stone heaters, remained out of the client's sight." Spa guests are greeted in a sunny lounge sheltered by stalks of giant bamboo off the hotel's main lobby. A warming hibiscus-ginger tisane (herbal tea) is presented in a dainty ceramic cup; the therapist then leads the way outside, down a winding stone path to a wooden gate hung with a capricious carved-wood face holding a shushing finger to its lips (beats a DO NOT DISTURB sign any day). Each suite is named for a Hawaiian flower (awapuhi ke'oke'o, naupaka, pikake, ohia lehua, loulu) which is also depicted on traditional quilts—handstitched by the hotel staff—draped across the massage tables.
For the Kahala's treatment menu, Chappell tells me, "we used our core treatments as a canvas, and then added the vibrancy and life of Hawaii as the color." They replaced certain products and techniques with those indigenous to the islands, such as ti leaves. ESPA collaborated with Oahu-based lomi lomi practitioner Elysa Kealoha to develop a Lokahi treatment ($330), which incorporates the traditional Hawaiian massage—using long, full body strokes—with kukui nut and macadamia oil, warm pohaku stones, and ti leaves.
Every body treatment begins with a ritual foot cleansing in a koa-wood bowl filled with mineral-rich Hawaiian alae sea salts. In a curtained alcove, an overflowing Kohler tub stands ready for a skin-softening soak, after which it's on to the massage table for a two-and-a-half-hour Pi'ha Kino ($330). This holistic body treatment starts off with a cooling spearmint-aloe exfoliation, followed by a deeply relaxing massage using frankincense and sandalwood oils. Therapist Winnie Young places warm basalt stones on the hands and feet, and then brushes a calming pink clay mask into the scalp. (Request to have the anonymous New Age music turned off so you can hear birds chirping and palms rustling in the tiny meditation garden outside.) DON'T MISS Aesthetician Lynne Kurashima has magic fingers; her superb Concept facial ($190) eliminates the clinical—steam, extractions—and focuses on the critical: relieving deep facial tension and firming up distressed skin. And Sharon Kamaalii's lomi lomi made me realize that healing contact with another human being is one of the most inspired expressions of aloha, Hawaii's all-purpose welcoming mantra. Clever Kahala. Rooms, $345-$690. Spa treatments additional; 808-739-8888; www.mandarinoriental.com.
IN FITNESS AND IN HEALTH
Tucson, Arizona, and Lenox, Massachusetts
When it's time to get serious about your health, the two Canyon Ranch locations are the foremost spas in the States for personalized wellness regimes. Long favored by fitness fanatics, the Ranches also have comprehensive medical programs for guests who want to spend five to eight days focusing on specific physical or mental health issues. In addition to Sonoran Desert hikes, strength-training workouts, nutrition and cooking classes, Canyon Ranch's Life Enhancement Center in Tucson has preventive health sessions for stress management and lifestyle change. "People get religion when they're in crisis mode," says Gary Frost, Canyon Ranch's executive vice president. "The Life Enhancement program has been amazing for our guests. They gain insight and education, and learn to take responsibility for changing their diagnosis."
Canyon Ranch founder Mel Zuckerman is a typical fitness convert. During the 1970s, while the owner of a successful Arizona construction business, he struggled with excess weight, asthma, and high blood pressure. After a month-long spa stay in California convinced him to commit to a healthy lifestyle, Zuckerman and his wife, Enid, bought a working cattle ranch outside Tucson; in 1979, they turned it into Canyon Ranch. Ten years later, riding its success, the Zuckermans acquired a 120-acre estate with a Beaux Arts mansion in the Berkshires, and opened a second branch. The Ranch's first SpaClub, a 65,000-square-foot day spa at the Venetian Resort in Las Vegas, was designed to be a showcase for the Zuckermans' healthy-living philosophy.
Always progressive, Canyon Ranch has championed many complementary healing practices—acupuncture, herbal medicine, neuromuscular therapy, and healing touch—which currently augment traditional Western practices at both spas. Frost says, "At Canyon Ranch, you're in a relaxed, health-oriented environment, surrounded by well-trained, supportive professionals. You can consult a doctor, who then takes you next door to meet an exercise physiologist. Nutritionists make the rounds in the dining room. This sort of integrative awareness-building doesn't take place anywhere else. And it makes a lasting impression." DON'T MISS In Tucson, a watsu (aqua massage) session with Susan Kovacs ($115). In the Berkshires, a new program called Ultraprevention ($4,000) involves six daily sessions with a medical team that assesses your physiological functions and then determines which complementary therapies—whether acupuncture or meditation—will help get you back in shape. WHAT'S NEXT A Canyon Ranch SpaClub onboard Cunard's Queen Mary 2, which launches in 2004. Tucson rooms, $4,375 for a one-week program. Berkshires rooms, $3,610 for a one-week program. Most spa treatments included. Day spa rates at the Venetian vary according to treatment; 800-742-9000; www.canyonranch.com.
Even after 45 years, the Door is still golden. This seminal sanctuary endorses the latest healing and fitness methods, a combination that many younger spas strive to imitate. Pass through the gilt entrance to a 377-acre haven where giant carp thrash happily at feeding time in a cascading koi pond and the subtle scent of jasmine informs every step along meandering paths. Trickling streams wind past traditional Japanese honjin-style guestrooms with tiled roofs, shoji screen doors, and ikebana floral arrangements. (The downy queen beds, however, are a Western concession to pampering.) A citrus grove, organic vegetable garden, and avocado orchard provide verdant counterpoint to the arid south California landscape. The staff-to-client ratio is four to one, but even that doesn't explain the remarkable attention you receive at this intimate spa, which admits only 40 women at a time. (The Golden Door also has annual men's and couples' retreats.) Every day is tailored to your personal goals, from the intensity of fitness workouts to diet and portion control at meals.
Founder Deborah Szekely favors an old maxim to describe the Golden Door philosophy of caring: "You cannot give with a closed hand." This open-handed generosity extends to everyone who practices a curative vocation at the spa. Chef Michel Stroot creates edible haiku; tai chi instructor Donald Jones, a former software executive, imparts no-nonsense lessons in life change as part of the immersion program; Hiroko Holmes fuses classic Thai massage with a muscular Shiatsu style from her native city of Osaka (also part of the immersion course). Ever evolving, the spa has just begun to plant a sacred bamboo grove, based on traditional contemplation gardens found at temples in Japan. New treatments have been added to the daily roster of pampering facials and massages—try the refreshing cucumber-mint body scrub (included in the immersion program) and a ki-atsu aqua massage ($220 for 90 minutes). Plans are on the board to revamp the bathhouse and spa therapy rooms. But thankfully, for harried veteran guests in search of stability, some attributes remain constant. General manager Rachel Caldwell says: "Things don't wear out here, they wear in. There's value in a place that shows its age gracefully." DON'T MISS The immersion program's new seminar on Kaizen, an Asian method of implementing change one step at a time. TAKE HOME The Golden Door Cookbook, which contains 200 low-fat recipes ($30). Can't carve out a full week from your hectic schedule? The Peaks in Telluride and The Boulders in Scottsdale have Golden Door day spas. Rooms, $6,275 for a week-long total-immersion program. Day spa rates vary according to treatment; 800-424-0777; www.thegoldendoor.com.
GOING TO EXTREMES
Red Mountain Resort & Spa
St. George, Utah
Despite a recent shift away from high-burn workouts at most American spas, some still make it their first priority to keep the body beautiful—and fit. Red Mountain's stunning wilderness setting, next to Snow Canyon State Park, allows for aggressive workouts during guided hikes and mountain-biking trips. The Spa Sports program includes rock climbing ($100) and kayaking ($70) in Zion National Park. Guests can ride horseback on trails in Pine Valley ($70), or trek the Grand Canyon rim to rim on a backcountry wilderness campout ($600).
The spa tailors weeklong stays to each guest's physical abilities and stamina. It has hiking (four levels of difficulty) and dietary regimens (from vegan green cuisine to protein-rich "call of the wild" game entrées). In March, Red Mountain will open 12 new luxury villas for long-term guests. DON'T MISS The new geo-caching adventure ($50). This 21st-century treasure hunt, which started in the Pacific Northwest two years ago, has a growing global following. Red Mountain instructors J.P. Paige and Gary Oiler will help you join the chase with a class on navigating by handheld global-positioning-system device and a strenuous hike on sandy trails to locate a nearby cache containing a logbook. Rooms, $500-$580; villas, $580-$830. Spa treatments additional; 800-407-3002; www.redmountainspa.com.
The Self Centre at Caneel Bay
St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands
In an open-air haven above Honeymoon Beach, you can see and hear the Caribbean, even from a half-lotus position on a yoga mat. The views of Jost Van Dyke and St. Thomas in the distance are mind-boggling. And boggling the mind is precisely the point of attending a visualization session at Caneel Bay's Self Centre, rather than, say, going snorkeling in nearby Trunk Bay. Part of a traditional beach resort, this unorthodox day spa does not offer facials or pedicures. Instead, it encourages life changes by providing sessions in Hatha yoga ($35), Pilates ($35), tai chi in the ocean ($125), stargazing (complimentary), couples therapy ($195) and primordial sound meditation sessions ($450 per couple). Founder Jan Kinder is a registered nurse, certified music therapist, and has also studied with Deepak Chopra. At Caneel Bay, however, Kinder advocates a lighthearted approach to wellness: "The Centre is like going back to Sandbox 101 and learning how to play again."
With seven white-sand beaches on a 170-acre peninsula surrounded by national parklands, adopting this particular outlook is almost effortless. Caneel Bay has 166 guestrooms in low-slung, eco-friendly cottages that intentionally disappear into the tropical foliage. (Think Marcel Breuer at the beach.) Founded in 1956 by industrialist Laurance Rockefeller, the resort is currently managed by the Dallas-based Rosewood company, which has left almost everything intact, except for the addition of a few bare necessities—air conditioning, an extensive wine cellar and, of course, Rivolta Carmignani sheets. Kinder first came to Caneel Bay as a guest and fell in love with the place, eventually moving to St. John and opening the Self Centre two years ago. (She has even managed to convert the resort's managers to her own distinctive brand of well-being.) After a business astrology reading ($125), seek out a shady palm tree overlooking the briny blue and contemplate your new mantra. DON'T MISS Kinder's mindful meditation class held on the beach at Turtle Bay ($35). Rooms, $450-$1,100. Spa treatments additional; 888-767-3966; www.caneelbay.com.
Boca Raton, Florida
At the Boca Raton Resort & Club, Spa Palazzo is a pampering, fountain-of-youth fantasy. On south Florida's Intracoastal Waterway, the regal pink setting recalls Spain's Alhambra palace. Manicured gardens, waterfall, whirlpools, and opulent marble-and-tile treatment rooms are the backdrop for soothing balneotherapy baths and water rituals. Private men's and women's baths, where guests begin every treatment with a cooling cucumber facial mask and detoxifying eucalyptus aromatherapy salts, have nine aromatic mineral pools. After this preliminary cleansing step, a therapist serves icy hand towels and refreshing grapefruit-ginger sorbet before the plunge into additional aquatic treatments. Coastal Florida sweetgrass lends its heady green fragrance to the steamrooms and saunas.
The Boca Raton commissioned spa designer Sylvia Sepielli to devise its exclusive Trilogy Programme. "Instead of booking à la carte treatments that don't have a consistent goal," she says, "you have sequenced therapies that create a single benefit." For example, the program offers a European-style wrap, bath, and massage combination ($200) that employs Moor mud and seaweed. "These treatments aren't new or trendy," says Sepielli, "but they work. And we have a take-home program. You start at the spa, then continue the regime for several days with the products we give you." DON'T MISS Spa Palazzo's excellent use of the Sunshine State's famous citrus. Rehydrate with a vitamin-enriched Florida C facial ($200) or a grapefruit-peppermint body wrap ($65). Rooms, $225-$8,000. Spa treatments additional; 800-327-0101; www.bocaresort.com.
Kohala Coast, Hawaii
At the Mauna Lani resort's new spa, 10 thatched-roof hales, or huts, are set in the middle of an otherworldly lava berm—courtesy of a looming, now-dormant volcano. (Indoors, there are eight more climate-controlled treatment rooms.) Fragrant trees and flowering shrubs are strategically positioned at winding junctures in this curious black-rock maze; when you walk along grass pathways to the open-air meditation platform, the scent of white ginger lingers on the salty ocean breeze. Hung from a crossbeam, an ice bell melts slowly in the tropical heat. It contains little shells and coins that drop on a metal tray as the sculpture shrinks, a gentle reminder to blissed-out guests that time hasn't actually come to a standstill. In designing the spa, Sylvia Sepielli was determined to respect Hawaiian traditions. She approached local elders about creating a la'au (herbal healing garden) filled with plumeria, hibiscus, and kukui nut trees. "Hawaii's healing culture is still intact," she explains. "One of the Big Island's kahu [guardians] heard what we were doing and dropped another job to help construct the garden properly. And our therapists helped build the massage hales, so their souls are in those structures. That's how aloha was put in the spa."
The Brothers Cazimero hula songs that Betty Lau plays during the Lomi Lomi Hula massage ($165) she created for Mauna Lani seem to attract mynah birds. They chatter just outside the beaded curtains of the timber hut as she rhythmically strokes away jet lag using lomi lomi exquisitely choreographed to the music. Inspired by the snowy crater of Mauna Kea, the spa also riffs on a fire-and-ice theme for its outdoor lava sauna treatment: Guests apply sandalwood-scented glacial clay and bake beneath the Pacific sun on a circular stone bench, tempering the detox process with cooling applications of melted ice ($55). DON'T MISS Aquatic bodywork with Delphina Miller ($165) in a heated pool at one of the hotel's five newly renovated ultra-luxe bungalows. TAKE HOME Mauna Lani's ginger body scrub and cream, which are made exclusively by a Big Island herbalist ($38). Rooms, $385-$1,200; bungalows, $4,400-$5,200. Spa treatments additional; 808-881-7922; www.maunalani.com.
Tea & Empathy: Herbal Rituals
Smoothies are fine for a fitness routine, but when you require a drink fit for reflection, tea is the brew of existential champions. The best spas blend their own or commission an herbalist to create tisanes, which are often presented with the same gravitas as ancient tea rites. During the steam therapy ($130 for two people) at Auberge du Soleil (Napa, CA; 800-348-5406), a generator infuses the chamber with essences of rosemary, thyme, lavender, and mint, and at the same time brews fragrant potions. Zhena's Gypsy Tea mixes special blends—blood orange and chocolate jasmine—for patrons of Sage Hill (Ojai, CA; 888-394-1333) who want to kick caffeine and sugar. Frenetic clients at the Miami Mandarin Oriental's spa (305-913-8288) sip Ayurvedic "worry-free tea." And in Baja California, the new Spa at Esperanza (866-311-2226) serves orange-prickly pear and cantaloupe agua frescas during its Water Passage ritual (price upon request).
Healers don't always wear lab coats and stethoscopes. Spas are the ideal environment for sampling "healing touch" treatments designed to align mind and body. Naturopathica founder Barbara Close, a champion of intuitive therapy, says, "The Chinese were right three thousand years ago: There is an energy that passes between two people. It's a nonverbal thing." Mii Amo in Sedona, Arizona (888-749-2137), specializes in Japanese reiki massage ($115), while The Greenhouse in Arlington, Texas (817-640-4000), offers "zero balancing" for releasing pent-up emotions and chronic musculoskeletal pain ($125). The Phoenician's Centre for Well-Being in Scottsdale, Arizona (800-843-2392), combines acupuncture and massage in its "acussage" sessions ($195) and recently introduced reiki-chakra balancing treatments ($110). The Lodge at Skylonda near Palo Alto, California (800-851-2222), espouses Tui Na, ancient Chinese bodywork ($160) that manipulates muscle to establish a harmonious flow of the body's Qi, or energy.
How to Build a Better Spa
Truly inspired spa designers are rare. In the United States, there's New Age input at its best from Sylvia Sepielli (Spa Ojai in California, Grand Wailea on Maui, Mii Amo); her next project is a new facility at La Costa Resort in Carlsbad, California, for pal Deepak Chopra. Tara Grodjesk designs spas as well as treatments using only the highest-quality ingredients. She customized regimens for the Auberge du Soleil and the Spa at Esperanza in Baja California; she'll soon make over the Bernardus Lodge in Carmel, California, and the Esalen Institute in Big Sur. Cary Collier is responsible for the stunning spa at the Bali Four Seasons. His latest project is the Spanish Colonial-style Alvadora Spa, which opens this January at the Royal Palms in Phoenix.
Limited Edition: Tonics and Salves
"Slowly, slowly catch a monkey." These days, Jenefer Palmer (founder of Osea, a line of natural, marine-based face and body products) repeats this Buddhist proverb frequently. Palmer is thrilled that her aversion to synthetic ingredients has gone mainstream. "After all these years," she says, "I'm finally considered normal." Palmer uses raw red algae and Icelandic seaweed in her potions, which are floating into spas like Bliss in Manhattan (888-243-8825) and L.A.'s St. Regis Hotel & Spa (310-277-6111). And she isn't the only earth mother asserting that purity counts. Many holistic spas favor small-batch, chemical-free products crafted with organic plant extracts and herbal infusions. Barbara Close's Naturopathica concoctions are found at The Lodge at Torrey Pines in San Diego (858-777-6690) and The Shore Club in Miami Beach (305-695-3100). Farmaesthetics' Brenda Brock harvests herbs from seaside farms in Rhode Island; recently she blended a rose hip-mint clay mask ($17) for the new spa at the Four Seasons in Santa Barbara (805-969-2261). On Hawaii, Maryann Rose Broyles uses her Hana Naia lavender-blood orange oil to soothe aching muscles at the Four Seasons Hualalai's Sports Club & Spa (808-325-8000).
The Power of Crystal
Every now and then, a visionary stumbles onto a new therapeutic use for a humble object, and suddenly it's elevated to iconic status. Witness the hot-stone massage craze. The same holds true for crystal singing bowls, which have recently been morphed from scientific instruments into transcendental vessels. Quartz crucibles, which are employed in the semiconductor industry for growing silicon trees, are made from 99.96 percent pure silica sand fused solid by a gigawatt of electricity. Curiously, when resonated, the white crystal bowls emit a perfect harmonic vibration. Imperfect bowls, which formerly wound up on the scrap heap, now accompany chakra-balancing treatments. Catch the vibe during guided visualizations ($115) at Mii Amo (Enchantment Resort, Sedona, Arizona; 888-749-2137; www.miiamo.com) or during the Ayurvedic Gandharva massages ($165) available at the Chopra Center (La Costa Resort and Spa, Carlsbad, California; 888-424-6772; www.chopra.com).
Many American spas don't have to look far to find inspiration for beneficial scrubs and other healing traditions. There are treatments based on everything from Hawaiian la`au lapa`au (herbal medicine) to the Sioux hanblecheyapi (vision quest). Utah's Spa at Sundance (800-892-1600) draws on a Native American purification ritual during a "blanket" wrap treatment ($120) that uses organic Utah honey and rolled oats. Inspired by the purifying properties of the clary sage that grows in neighboring Torrey Pines State Reserve, the signature treatment at The Lodge at Torrey Pines is a euphoric coastal sage scrub ($110). The Four Seasons in Scottsdale, Arizona (480-515-5700), looks to the Sonoran Desert for inspiration: the spa's moisturizing body mask ($165) utilizes a blend of Sedona clay, sage, and prickly pear cactus.
Beyond the Veggie Burger
Frankly, I find the phrase an oxymoron: There's no real substitute for fat, sugar, or caffeine. That's not to say that dining out at a spa needs to be entirely devoid of pleasure. After all, wine is served at Mii Amo and Miraval and red meat is on the menu at Red Mountain. Still, after suffering countless veggie burgers and pommes sans frites at spas nationwide, I finally found happiness at the Nob Hill Spa in The Huntington Hotel in San Francisco (415-345-2888; www.nobhillspa.com). Inspired by Cantonese tradition, chef Gloria Ciccarone-Nehls has created an enticing dim sum lunch of shiitake mushroom shiu mai, bite-size ginger chicken pot stickers, and adorable shrimp dumplings shaped like goldfish. Order alfresco on the spa's sleek terrace for a fantastic view of the city's skyline.
Hotel prices show high-season rates from the least expensive double to the most expensive suite.
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