Delhi: Better than Bukhara?

Whimsically named after the infamous India-Pakistan border—the so-called Line of Control—the restaurant Line of No Control specializes in the same rich northwest frontier cuisine as Bukhara’s, using 900-year-old recipes for perfectly tender kebabs, creamy chicken tikkas, and meats that are slow-cooked for more than eight hours. Unlike Bukhara, however, LoNC, whose food easily rivals that of the ITC Maurya’s much ballyhooed flagship, actually takes reservations. And where Bukhara sports a traditional, rustic (some might even say staid) interior, LoNC has a sleek, contemporary package: black-and-gold-silk tapestries and stylish private dining rooms. Opened two years ago by Dhiraj Arora, the man behind Shalom, once Delhi’s most happening lounge, LoNC also has much, much more reasonable prices. The biggest difference, though, is that despite its excellence, this discreet restaurant remains a secret treat for those in the know. Dinner, $35. At the Qutab Hotel, Shaheed Jeet Singh Marg; 91-11/4168-8963; lineofnocontrol.com.