Archive

October 2008

Departures 10/2008 Cover
Features
Eating Malabar
Along Kerala’s storied Malabar Coast, the mix of religions and cultures is as varied as the famously piquant flavors.
Himalayan Luxe
At a high-altitude retreat, Sophy Roberts finds solace, beauty, and another India.
Into Calcutta
Amid Faded Raj palaces, the scent of Attar of roses, and the sound of Rickshaw bells, Susanna Moore encounters the ghosts of a city’s former grandeur.
Of Moghuls, Models & Movie Stars
Planet India
Your Palace...Or Mine?
Sophy Roberts puts the question to Richard David Story.
India Now 2008
Bangalore: A Cuppa at Koshy’s
Bangalore: Future City
Bangalore: Guide to Get
Bangalore: Hotel Bars with Style
Bangalore: Lavelle Road
Bangalore: Olive Conquers All
Bangalore: Retail Resource
Bangalore: Saris to Savor
Bangalore: Will the Real Historic Hotel Please Stand Up?
Beyond Bangalore: Cruising in Kerala
Malavika Sangghvi hops aboard the Oberoi M.V. Vrinda, a luxe catamaran plying the waters of India’s southwest coast.
Beyond Bangalore: Soukya Healing Center
Beyond Bangalore: The Magic of Mysore
A quick train ride from Bangalore, this historic southern city, Louise Nicholson reveals, couldn’t be further from that technocapital.
Beyond Bangalore: Three Days in Chennai
Fiona Caulfield makes the classic coastal trip from the cultural center of Chennai to the French colonial settlement of Pondicherry.
Beyond Calcutta: The Glenburn Tea Estate
A journey to a boutique inn on a working plantation outside Darjeeling suits Janice Blackburn to, well, a tea.
Beyond Calcutta: Varanasi’s Divine Light
Visiting the holy city of Varanasi, Louise Nicholson explains, reveals the hidden heart of Hindu India.
Beyond Delhi: Making Your Way to the Taj
Beyond Delhi: Royal Rajasthan
More than anywhere else, the area called Rajasthan—and its grandeur—attracts Westerners to India. Fiona Caulfield checks in to a few of our favorite places.
Beyond Delhi: The Treasures of Jaipur
Lucia van der Post goes in search of the most wonderful shawls, jewels, and antiques in the place romantically known as the Pink City of India.
Beyond Mumbai: Ahilya Fort
Beyond Mumbai: Going, Going, Goa
Native son Vivek Menezes finds the boutique hideaways, pristine beaches, and local cuisine amid the crowds and commercialism of this lush seaside enclave.
Beyond Mumbai: The Architecture of Ahmedabad
Christie’s international director of Asian art, Amin Jaffer, examines six centuries of design in this Gujarat city.
Calcutta: 7½ Hours by Foot, Ferry, and Car
Calcutta: Chic Suites
Calcutta: Colonial Grandeur
Calcutta: Crown Jewels
Calcutta: Guide to Get
Calcutta: In Fashion
Calcutta: Indian Modern: The Big 5
Calcutta: Kewpie’s
Calcutta: Little Shops of Wonders
Calcutta: Market to Market
Calcutta: Mother Teresa’s Healing Legacy
Calcutta: Oberoi Grand
Calcutta: Sweet Sensations
Calcutta: Taxi, Please
Calcutta: Traditional Craft
Delhi: A Matter of Trust
Delhi: A Passion for Pashminas
Delhi: A Piece of the Past
Delhi: Aman, New Delhi
Delhi: Art in Miniature
Delhi: Bespoke Boots
Delhi: Better than Bukhara?
Delhi: Bewitched, Bothered & Bejeweled
Delhi: Crescent at the Qutab
Delhi: Dot-com Cuisine
Delhi: Fabulous Things
Delhi: Gurgaon’s Stopover Sleeps
Delhi: Imperial Hotel
Delhi: In Stitches
Delhi: Insider Access
Delhi: Lutyens’ Delhi
Delhi: Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk
Delhi: One Thousand and One Indian Nights
Delhi: Rooms to Request
Delhi: Streetside Snacking
Delhi: Surprising Souvenir
Delhi: The Best of Bukhara
Delhi: The Exhibitionists
Delhi: The Smoothest Silk
Delhi: The Ultimate Secret Address
Delhi: Well Tailored
Delhi: Why I Love The Oberoi
India 2008: A Tale of Two Indias
India 2008: Bloom of Youth
India 2008: Bollywood Confessions
India 2008: Conflict
India 2008: Cricket Goes Prime Time
India 2008: Essential Reading
India 2008: Friends and Rivals
India 2008: Great Expectorations
India 2008: He’s Not There
India 2008: Into the Fast Lane
India 2008: Like a Prayer
India 2008: Man vs. Machine
India 2008: Modern Love
India 2008: Power Couple
India 2008: Riding the Rails
India 2008: Royal Reinvention
India 2008: Saving the Tigers
India 2008: School Days
India 2008: The Caste System
India 2008: The Dalai Lama Lives Here
India 2008: The New Look
India 2008: The Rising Middle Class
Mumbai: A Mood Indigo
Mumbai: Artful Antiquing
Mumbai: Bandra on the Verge
Mumbai: Bollywood 101
Mumbai: Colonial Preservation
Mumbai: Five Off-the-Radar Restaurants
Mumbai: For the Home
Mumbai: Four Seasons Mumbai
Mumbai: Glittering Little Things
Mumbai’s bazaars and boutiques stock every type of jewelry imaginable. We’ve selected three of the top shops for three different sparkling styles.
Mumbai: Home Shopping
Mumbai: Mumbai Modern
Prices for contemporary Indian art have skyrocketed—a painting by Mumbai artist T. V. Santhosh that went for $3,500 in 2004 sold this year for $140,000—and the gallery scene here has expanded to meet demand. There are signs of a slowdown, but these top dealers are thriving.
Mumbai: Notes on Nightlife
Mumbai: Saris and Beyond
Mumbai has fostered the talent of some of India’s most cutting-edge designers and the curatorial flair of some of its most discerning shop owners. These five stores provide proof.
Mumbai: Shop the Taj
Mumbai: Spicy Crabs et al
Mumbai: Sporty Souvenir
Mumbai: Stall, Street, and Dock Shopping
Mumbai: Taj Mahal Palace & Tower
Mumbai: That Personal Touch
Mumbai: The City Historic
Mumbai: The House That Gandhi Built
Mumbai: The Tailor of Mumbai
Mumbai: The Way It Was—and Is
Mumbai: Walking on Water
The Departures Guide to The New India
10 Outfitters You Need to Know
Out There
Golden Rules